{"id":990695,"date":"2023-10-10T12:00:43","date_gmt":"2023-10-10T09:00:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=990695"},"modified":"2026-07-18T16:48:01","modified_gmt":"2026-07-18T13:48:01","slug":"lakerda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/lakerda\/","title":{"rendered":"Lakerda"},"content":{"rendered":"
\u0130stanbul Bo\u011faz\u0131’n\u0131n sarp sular\u0131ndan s\u00fcz\u00fclen asil bir bal\u0131k miras\u0131 olan lakerda, y\u00f6resel mutfak geleneklerinin en duru temsilcilerinden biridir. WAYANA\u2018y\u0131 \u015earap Evi olarak o denli benimsemi\u015fiz ki mutfa\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n bize sundu\u011fu lezzetleri payla\u015fmay\u0131 ihmal etti\u011fimizi fark ettik. Halbuki WAYANA\u2019ya gelen konuklar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n neredeyse t\u00fcm\u00fc \u015faraplar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra yemek men\u00fcm\u00fczden de se\u00e7im yap\u0131yorlar ve hem tapaslar\u0131m\u0131z hem ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7lar\u0131m\u0131z i\u00e7in be\u011fenilerini payla\u015farak eme\u011fi ge\u00e7en b\u00fct\u00fcn arkada\u015flar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 sevindiriyorlar.<\/p>\n

Bug\u00fcnk\u00fc yaz\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 e\u015fsiz bir \u0130stanbul lezzeti olan lakerdaya ay\u0131rd\u0131k. E\u015fsizli\u011fi \u0130stanbul\u2019un bir bo\u011faz kenti olmas\u0131yla ilgili. Bu yaz\u0131 \u00f6ncesi bu konuda internetteki kaynaklar\u0131 tarad\u0131\u011f\u0131mda kar\u015f\u0131ma \u00e7\u0131kan ilgin\u00e7 yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmalardan birisi rahmetli Ayd\u0131n Boysan\u2019\u0131n \u2018\u0130stanbul\u2019un Kuytu K\u00f6\u015feleri\u2019 kitab\u0131nda yer verdi\u011fi Toledolu bir Musevi bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fc oldu. Ses benzerli\u011fiyle \u0130spanyolca \u2018La kerrida\u2019yla ili\u015fkilendirilen \u00f6yk\u00fcn\u00fcn romantik yan\u0131 elbette insan\u0131 sar\u0131veriyor. Ama lakerdan\u0131n tarihine Andrew Dalby gibi bir ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131 akademisyenin analizinden bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda, Bizans d\u00f6nemine kadar uzan\u0131yoruz ve eski Yunancada lakerdan\u0131n \u2018tuzlanm\u0131\u015f palamut veya orkinos\u2019 anlam\u0131nda kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. Bu yan\u0131yla \u0130stanbullu bir lezzet olan lakerdan\u0131n yolculu\u011funun binlerce y\u0131l \u00f6ncesine uzand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6ylememiz yanl\u0131\u015f olmaz herhalde.<\/p>\n

\u00d6nce lakerdan\u0131n yap\u0131lma y\u00f6nteminin dayand\u0131\u011f\u0131 temellere bakal\u0131m.<\/p>\n

Ozmoz Kimyas\u0131: Tuzla Pi\u015firme Sanat\u0131n\u0131n Mikroskobik Mekanizmas\u0131<\/h2>\n

Lakerda \u00fcretimi, basit bir bal\u0131k tuzlama i\u015flemi de\u011fil. Karadeniz ve Bo\u011faz\u2019\u0131n o sarp ak\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131ndan sonbaharda s\u00fcz\u00fclen o narin torik etleri dilimlendikten sonra, omuriliklerindeki kan p\u0131ht\u0131lar\u0131 ince tellerle dikey olarak titizlikle temizlenir. Bu temizlik, lakerdan\u0131n kokmas\u0131n\u0131 engelleyen en koruyucu ad\u0131md\u0131r. Ard\u0131ndan kal\u0131n deniz tuzuyla bulu\u015fan bal\u0131k etinde, h\u00fccre i\u00e7i sular\u0131n dikey olarak d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7ekildi\u011fi ve tuz iyonlar\u0131n\u0131n h\u00fccre i\u00e7ine rahat\u00e7a n\u00fcfuz etti\u011fi bir ozmoz s\u00fcreci ba\u015flar. Bu s\u00fcre\u00e7, etteki zararl\u0131 bakteriyel faaliyetleri tamamen durdururken, tori\u011fin o narin ya\u011f dokusunu s\u0131k\u0131la\u015ft\u0131rarak ona adeta ipeksi, kadifemsi ve mumsu birer lokum k\u0131vam\u0131 kazand\u0131r\u0131r. Ate\u015f y\u00fcz\u00fc g\u00f6rmeden sadece tuzun bilgeli\u011fiyle pi\u015fen lakerda, geleneksel mutfak kimyas\u0131n\u0131n en asil hediyesidir.<\/p>\n

Bizans’tan Moda’ya K\u00fclt\u00fcrel Mukavemet: Bir \u0130stanbul Rit\u00fceli<\/h2>\n

\u0130stanbul gastronomisinde lakerda, as\u0131rlard\u0131r farkl\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerin ortak mutfak haf\u0131zas\u0131nda k\u00f6k salm\u0131\u015f \u00e7oksesli birer k\u00fclt\u00fcrel mukavemet an\u0131t\u0131d\u0131r. Antik Bizans d\u00f6neminde “Sarda” ad\u0131yla an\u0131lan ve Bo\u011faz\u2019\u0131n palamut bollu\u011funu k\u0131\u015f aylar\u0131nda de\u011ferlendirmek i\u00e7in geli\u015ftirilen bu tuzlama zanaat\u0131, Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6neminde Musevi ve Rum ustalar\u0131n ellerinde m\u00fckemmelle\u015ferek saray sofralar\u0131ndan meyhane meclislerine hemen her s\u0131n\u0131ftan t\u00fcketiciyle k\u00fclt\u00fcrel ba\u011f kurmu\u015ftur. Bug\u00fcn modern end\u00fcstriyel fabrikasyon koruyucular\u0131n yiyecekleri tektiple\u015ftirdi\u011fi \u00e7a\u011fda, geleneksel y\u00f6ntemlerle, torik eti, kaya tuzu ve sab\u0131r d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda hi\u00e7bir yapay m\u00fcdahale bar\u0131nd\u0131rmadan \u00fcretilen hakiki lakerday\u0131 korumak, t\u0131pk\u0131 nadir yerel \u00fcz\u00fcmleri ya\u015fatmak gibi anlaml\u0131 bir gastronomik duru\u015ftur. \u0130stanbul’un binlerce y\u0131ll\u0131k ya\u015fayan haf\u0131zas\u0131n\u0131 bug\u00fcne ta\u015f\u0131yan simge lezzetlerden biridir.<\/p>\n

\u0130stanbul\u2019un e\u015fsiz lezzeti dememizin sebebinin \u0130stanbul Bo\u011faz\u0131 oldu\u011funa yukar\u0131da k\u0131saca de\u011findik. Bal\u0131klar\u0131n g\u00f6\u00e7 yollar\u0131n\u0131 inceleyen uzmanlar ilkbahar aylar\u0131nda beslenmek i\u00e7in Karadeniz\u2019e ge\u00e7en bal\u0131klar\u0131n sonbaharda ya\u011fl\u0131 ve besili olarak Marmara Denizi\u2019ne d\u00f6nd\u00fcklerini belirtirler. H\u00e2s\u0131l\u0131, \u0130stanbul Bo\u011faz\u0131 gibi bir su yolunun bulunmas\u0131 palamutlar\u0131n bu rotay\u0131 izlemesini sa\u011flar. Onun i\u00e7in lakerda yap\u0131m\u0131na en uygun zaman\u0131n Ekim-Aral\u0131k aylar\u0131 oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yler tecr\u00fcbeli bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131lar.<\/p>\n

Her co\u011frafyada bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 uzun s\u00fcreli korumak i\u00e7in farkl\u0131 usuller geli\u015fmi\u015f. \u0130skandinav \u00fclkeleri g\u00fcne\u015fin az oldu\u011fu so\u011fuk iklimden \u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fc f\u00fcme ederek saklamay\u0131 tercih ederken, Akdeniz y\u00f6resi \u00e7iroz yap\u0131m\u0131ndaki gibi g\u00fcne\u015fte kurutmay\u0131 veya lakerdada oldu\u011fu gibi tuzlamay\u0131 \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131karm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Lakerda yap\u0131m\u0131nda palamut ailesi tercih edilir. Ailenin en k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fc\u011f\u00fc olan \u00e7ingene palamutu uygun de\u011fildir, ama palamut ve ailenin daha b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00fcyeleri olan torik ve zindandelen sanki bu i\u015f i\u00e7in vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n

WAYANA mutfa\u011f\u0131nda lakerdam\u0131z\u0131 kendimiz yapm\u0131yoruz ama \u00e7ok iyi i\u015fleyen ve bu i\u015fe g\u00f6n\u00fcl veren bir tedarik\u00e7imiz var. Aylin Han\u0131m\u2019\u0131n Aylak Lakerda markas\u0131yla haz\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 lakerdalar, WAYANA Tapas Men\u00fcs\u00fc’nde MARUSA PARHU ad\u0131yla yer al\u0131yor. \u00dcr\u00fcn\u00fcn ad\u0131n\u0131 Hitit\u00e7e tuzlanm\u0131\u015f bal\u0131k deyi\u015finden esinlenerek t\u00fcrettik. Lakerday\u0131 WAYANA mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcretti\u011fi k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 so\u011fan tur\u015fusuyla birlikte sunuyoruz. Ayr\u0131ca Deniz \u00dcr\u00fcnleri taba\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda da lakerdan\u0131n \u00f6zel bir yeri var.<\/p>\n

\u015earap evi olmam\u0131z\u0131 hat\u0131rlayarak lakerday\u0131 hangi \u015faraplarla i\u00e7ebilece\u011fimize k\u0131saca de\u011finelim. Y\u00fcksek asitli uluslararas\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcmlerden yap\u0131lan Sauvignon Blanc, yerel \u00fcz\u00fcmlerden yap\u0131lan Emir \u015faraplar\u0131 ve lakerdal\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcnlerimizle \u00e7ok iyi uyum sa\u011flar. \u0130lle k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015farap i\u00e7mek isterim diyenlere taneni \u00e7ok g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc olmayan, hafif, biraz daha asitli Kalecik Karas\u0131 veya Pinot Noir \u015faraplar\u0131m\u0131zdan \u00f6nerebiliriz. \u00dcstelik Kalecik Karas\u0131 portf\u00f6y\u00fcm\u00fcz o kadar zengin ki isteyen k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131s\u0131n\u0131, isteyen rozesini, hatta \u2018blanc de noir\u2019 olarak i\u015flenmi\u015f beyaz\u0131n\u0131 yudumlayabilir.<\/p>\n

Lakerdan\u0131n o ate\u015f y\u00fcz\u00fc g\u00f6rmeden sadece tuzun ozmoz g\u00fcc\u00fcyle \u015fekillenen zanaatkar yap\u0131s\u0131, hi\u00e7bir yapay koruyucu bar\u0131nd\u0131rmayan m\u00fcdahalesiz haz\u0131rl\u0131k a\u015famalar\u0131 ve \u0130stanbul’un k\u00f6kl\u00fc lezzet haf\u0131zas\u0131 ilginizi \u00e7ekiyorsa, blogumuzdaki di\u011fer nitelikli i\u00e7eriklerimizi de inceleyebilirsiniz:<\/p>\n