{"id":990720,"date":"2023-10-19T12:00:41","date_gmt":"2023-10-19T09:00:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=990720"},"modified":"2026-07-26T14:37:33","modified_gmt":"2026-07-26T11:37:33","slug":"kalecik-karasi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/kalecik-karasi\/","title":{"rendered":"Kalecikkaras\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"
\u0130\u00e7 Anadolu’nun o sert karasal iklim ku\u015fatmas\u0131nda zarafetiyle hayatta kalan tarihi bir \u00fcz\u00fcm \u00e7e\u015fidi olan Kalecikkaras\u0131, t\u00fcm ezberleri bozuyor. A\u015fa\u011f\u0131daki al\u0131nt\u0131 bu tespite bir de tarih\u00ee derinlik kat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

\u201cRivayet edilir ki Roma \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu d\u00f6neminde Ankara\u2019dan Roma saraylar\u0131na \u015farap gidermi\u015f. E\u011fer bu rivayet do\u011fru ise, g\u00f6nderilen bu \u015faraplar\u0131n mutlaka Kalecik Karas\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcmlerinden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bulunan k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015farap olmas\u0131 gerekir. Zira Kalecik Karas\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc, y\u0131llarca yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z ara\u015ft\u0131rmalara g\u00f6re ger\u00e7ekten yurdumuzun en iyi k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015farapl\u0131k \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc oldu\u011fu gibi, \u015faraplar\u0131 kalite bak\u0131m\u0131ndan d\u00fcnyaca \u00fcnl\u00fc Frans\u0131z k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015faraplar\u0131yla rekabet edecek ve boy \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc\u015fecek bir kalitededir. Buna g\u00f6re diyebiliriz ki Frans\u0131zlar i\u00e7in Pinot Noir \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc ne ise, Kalecik Karas\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc de T\u00fcrkiye i\u00e7in odur.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

Yukar\u0131daki al\u0131nt\u0131y\u0131 Ankara \u00dcniversitesi Ziraat Fak\u00fcltesi\u2019nin \u00f6nc\u00fc \u00f6\u011fretim \u00fcyelerinden Prof. Dr. Arif Akman\u2019dan yapt\u0131m. 1995 y\u0131l\u0131nda kaybetti\u011fimiz Rahmetli Akman\u2019\u0131n bu yaz\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n devam\u0131, Kalecikkaras\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn son y\u00fcz y\u0131l i\u00e7indeki maceras\u0131n\u0131 anlamak a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00e7ok de\u011ferli bir belge. Merakl\u0131lar\u0131n yaz\u0131n\u0131n bitimindeki linkten okumas\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6neririm.<\/p>\n

\"\u00dcz\u00fcm\"<\/p>\n

K\u0131z\u0131l\u0131rmak \u0130lme\u011fi ve Kalecikkaras\u0131 Yerel \u00dcz\u00fcm Yap\u0131s\u0131<\/h2>\n

Kalecikkaras\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn \u0130\u00e7 Anadolu\u2019nun o ac\u0131mas\u0131z, sert ve dondurucu karasal iklim ku\u015fatmas\u0131n\u0131n tam kalbinde b\u00f6ylesine narin ve ipeksi bir karakter geli\u015ftirebilmesinin arkas\u0131ndaki as\u0131l co\u011frafi mucize, K\u0131z\u0131l\u0131rmak\u2019\u0131n topra\u011fa att\u0131\u011f\u0131 o as\u0131rl\u0131k dokunu\u015ftur. Kalecik il\u00e7esini \u00e7evreleyen sarp da\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131nda k\u0131vr\u0131lan nehir yata\u011f\u0131, dikey birer \u0131s\u0131 d\u00fczenleyici g\u00f6revi g\u00f6rerek b\u00f6lgede kapal\u0131 ve korunakl\u0131 bir “mesoklima” koridoru in\u015fa eder. Bu su esasl\u0131 koruma, k\u0131\u015f aylar\u0131nda asman\u0131n g\u00f6vdesini dondurucu \u0130\u00e7 Anadolu mikro-donlar\u0131ndan korurken, yaz aylar\u0131nda ise y\u00fcksek rak\u0131m\u0131n getirdi\u011fi o yak\u0131c\u0131, kavurucu g\u00fcnd\u00fcz s\u0131cakl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 gece \u00e7\u00f6ken serin nehir esintileriyle dengeler. Gece ve g\u00fcnd\u00fcz aras\u0131nda olu\u015fan bu geni\u015f termal makas, Kalecikkaras\u0131 tanelerinin kabuklar\u0131nda yak\u0131c\u0131 g\u00fcne\u015f yan\u0131klar\u0131na maruz kalmadan, narin ve dengeli bir asidite omurgas\u0131 ile taze k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 meyve aromalar\u0131 biriktirmesine olanak tan\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\u0130nce Kabuk ve \u0130peksi Omurga: Kalecikkaras\u0131\u2019n\u0131n Ampelografik Dehas\u0131<\/h2>\n

Enoloji d\u00fcnyas\u0131nda Kalecikkaras\u0131\u2019n\u0131 pek \u00e7ok kaba ve y\u00fcksek tanenli k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 varyeteden ay\u0131ran temel unsur, onun narin kabuk yap\u0131s\u0131 ve zarif dokusal dehas\u0131d\u0131r. \u0130nce kabuklu bir \u00e7e\u015fit olmas\u0131 nedeniyle, tanen miktar\u0131 olduk\u00e7a yumu\u015fak ve ipeksidir; kadehe d\u00f6k\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde ise koyu, opak renkler yerine bizi o asil, a\u00e7\u0131k yakut ve berrak kiremit tonlar\u0131yla selamlar. Ancak bu narin d\u0131\u015f g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f, aldat\u0131c\u0131 bir hafiflik bar\u0131nd\u0131rmaz; aksine, \u00e7elik gibi diri bir canl\u0131l\u0131k ve y\u00fcksek bir asidite yap\u0131s\u0131yla desteklenir. Burnumuzu kadehe dald\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda y\u00fckselen o canl\u0131 \u00e7ilek, ahududu, kiraz ve hatta Kalecikkaras\u0131\u2019na has o narin pamuk \u015fekeri ile tersiyer a\u015famalarda beliren hafif karanfil notalar\u0131, \u00fcz\u00fcm \u00e7e\u015fidinin ampelografik zenginli\u011finin kan\u0131t\u0131d\u0131r. A\u011f\u0131r me\u015fe bask\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 ve end\u00fcstriyel manip\u00fclasyonlar\u0131 reddeden bu duru kimlik, onu Anadolu teruar\u0131n\u0131n en entelekt\u00fcel \u015faraplar\u0131ndan biri yapar.<\/p>\n

Kalecikkaras\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcnden \u015farap yap\u0131m\u0131n\u0131n gen\u00e7 Cumhuriyet\u2019in kurulu\u015f y\u0131llar\u0131na kadar uzanan ve kay\u0131t alt\u0131na al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f bir tarihi var. \u00dclkemizin kurulu\u015f d\u00f6nemindeki reformist kimli\u011finin her alanda oldu\u011fu gibi \u015farap alan\u0131nda da nas\u0131l h\u0131zl\u0131 bir ilerleme sa\u011flad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bu kay\u0131tlarda g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. \u0130lerleyen y\u0131llarda iktidarlar\u0131n reformcu kimliklerini muhafazak\u00e2r kimli\u011fe terk etmesiyle her alanda oldu\u011fu gibi \u015farap alan\u0131nda da \u00e7\u00f6k\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 tarih bize s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Eskiden geni\u015f ba\u011fl\u0131k alanlara sahip olan Ankara ve \u00e7evresinde yeti\u015fen bu \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn esas do\u011fum yeri Kalecik. 1960\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llarda b\u00fct\u00fcn bu co\u011frafyay\u0131 kas\u0131p kavuran filoksera, Kalecikkaras\u0131 asmalar\u0131n\u0131 da tarumar etmi\u015f. Bu felaketin geride kalmas\u0131ndan sonra Tekirda\u011f Ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131k Ara\u015ft\u0131rma Enstit\u00fcs\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn y\u00fcr\u00fctt\u00fc\u011f\u00fc bir projeyle Kalecik Karas\u0131 asma klonlar\u0131 aras\u0131ndan se\u00e7imler yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn hem Trakya hem Kalecik y\u00f6relerinde yeniden hayat bulmas\u0131 sa\u011flanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Kalecikkaras\u0131 mavi tonlar\u0131 hissedilen siyah bir \u00fcz\u00fcm. Orta b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fckteki yuvarlak taneleri kal\u0131n kabuklu. Koni bi\u00e7iminde, s\u0131k\u0131 salk\u0131mlar halinde b\u00fcy\u00fcyor taneler. Kalecik Karas\u0131 \u015faraplar\u0131n\u0131n meyvemsi kimli\u011fi \u00e7ok g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc. Yeti\u015fti\u011fi y\u00f6reye ba\u011fl\u0131 olarak \u00e7ilek, frambuaz ve kiraz\u0131n \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 nefis \u015faraplar veriyor. Kalecik Karas\u0131 \u015faraplar\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck tanenli, orta g\u00f6vdeli ve k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015faraplar\u0131n ortalamas\u0131na g\u00f6re olduk\u00e7a g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc asiditeye sahip.<\/p>\n

Kalecik Karas\u0131 \u00e7ok y\u00f6nl\u00fc, hemen her \u00e7e\u015fit \u015farap uygulamas\u0131na elveri\u015fli bir yap\u0131s\u0131 var. WAYANA \u015earap Men\u00fcs\u00fc’nde Kalecik Karas\u0131 \u015faraplar\u0131 \u00e7ok zengin bir \u00e7e\u015fitlilikle yer al\u0131yor. Yaln\u0131z k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u015farap olarak de\u011fil, roze, blanc de noir olarak \u00fcretilen beyaz \u00f6rneklerini, yaln\u0131z do\u011fal mayayla yap\u0131lanlar\u0131n\u0131 tatman\u0131z m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Kalecik Karas\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn \u00fclkemizin hemen her yerinde yeti\u015ftirildi\u011fini de g\u00f6z \u00f6n\u00fcne alacak olursak, birbirinden \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 teruvarlarda yeti\u015fen ve teruvarlar\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6zelliklerini yans\u0131tan \u00fcz\u00fcmlerden yap\u0131lan de\u011fi\u015fik \u015faraplar\u0131 da hat\u0131rlamam\u0131zda fayda var.<\/p>\n

For Arif Akman\u2019s article:<\/strong> https:\/\/dergipark.org.tr\/en\/download\/article-file\/79470<\/a><\/p>\n

Kalecikkaras\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc gibi Anadolu’nun di\u011fer kadim gen kaynaklar\u0131n\u0131 ve kadehlerimizdeki yerel \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fi incelemek i\u00e7in The Grapes of This Land<\/span><\/strong><\/a> rehber yaz\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 ziyaret edebilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

Kalecikkaras\u0131\u2019n\u0131n o K\u0131z\u0131l\u0131rmak k\u0131vr\u0131mlar\u0131nda \u015fekillenen narin mesoklimatik \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fc, ince kabuklu salk\u0131mlar\u0131n kadehe ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 o duru k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 meyve katmanlar\u0131 ve yerel varyetelerin enolojik kimlikleri ilginizi \u00e7ekiyorsa, blogumuzdaki di\u011fer teknik ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar\u0131m\u0131za da g\u00f6z atabilirsiniz:<\/p>\n