{"id":990804,"date":"2023-11-29T19:13:01","date_gmt":"2023-11-29T16:13:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=990804"},"modified":"2026-07-18T11:04:04","modified_gmt":"2026-07-18T08:04:04","slug":"viyana-sarap-evi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/viyana-sarap-evi\/","title":{"rendered":"Wine Houses of Vienna"},"content":{"rendered":"

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BBC\u2019nin Ekim ay\u0131 b\u00fcltenindeki yaz\u0131lardan birisi Viyana\u2019n\u0131n \u015farap evlerine ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Kendi i\u015fimizle do\u011frudan ilgili oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in yaz\u0131y\u0131 hemen ve b\u00fcy\u00fck bir zevkle okudum.\"\u015earap\"Ustal\u0131kla kaleme al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f olan yaz\u0131 oturdu\u011fumuz yerden bizi Viyana\u2019ya g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor ve ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z co\u011frafyalar\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z i\u015fleri nas\u0131l dramatik bir bi\u00e7imde etkiledi\u011fini g\u00f6steriyor. Do\u011frusu, okudu\u011fum yaz\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7izdi\u011fi \u00e7er\u00e7eveyle kendi i\u00e7inde bulundu\u011fumuz ko\u015fullar\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131mda i\u00e7ime bir a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k \u00e7\u00f6kt\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc, h\u00fcz\u00fcnlendi\u011fimi hissettim.<\/span><\/p>\r\n

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Bizim Kad\u0131k\u00f6y\u2019deki \u015farap evimiz WAYANA, ad\u0131yla da Viyana\u2019ya benzer. Bunun sebebi Hitit dilinde \u015farap anlam\u0131nda kullan\u0131lan s\u00f6zc\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn WIYANA olmas\u0131d\u0131r. Biz kentin ad\u0131ndan uzakla\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flamak i\u00e7in WAYANA\u2019y\u0131 tercih ettik. Viyana\u2019daki \u015farap evlerinin \u00e7ok de\u011ferli kimi \u00f6zellikleri var, ama hi\u00e7biri bizimki kadar geni\u015f bir portf\u00f6y\u00fc kadehle sunam\u0131yor. Bunu da s\u00f6ylemeden ge\u00e7emeyece\u011fim. \u00d6nce k\u0131sa bir ansiklopedik bilgi:<\/p>\r\n

Teruar\u0131n Kolektif \u0130mzas\u0131: Wiener Gemischter Satz Felsefesi<\/h2>\r\n

Viyana \u015farap evleri k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn enolojik olarak kalbini olu\u015fturan ve bu kentsel ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fcnyada e\u015fsiz k\u0131lan kurucu unsur, “Wiener Gemischter Satz”, yani Viyana tarla harman\u0131 gelene\u011fidir. End\u00fcstriyel \u015farap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131kta farkl\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm \u00e7e\u015fitleri ayr\u0131 parsellerde yeti\u015ftirilip, ayr\u0131 tanklarda fermente edildikten sonra laboratuvar ortam\u0131nda kupaj yap\u0131l\u0131rken; Viyana’n\u0131n kadim ba\u011f alanlar\u0131nda en az \u00fc\u00e7 farkl\u0131 beyaz \u00fcz\u00fcm \u00e7e\u015fidi (\u00f6rne\u011fin Gr\u00fcner Veltliner, Riesling, Wei\u00dfburgunder ve Traminer) ayn\u0131 ba\u011f parseline bilerek kar\u0131\u015f\u0131k olarak dikilir. Bu asmalar ayn\u0131 g\u00fcn, ayn\u0131 olgunluk seviyelerinde birlikte hasat edilir ve mahzende tek bir tank\u0131n i\u00e7inde dikey olarak spontan fermente edilir. Kimi \u00fcz\u00fcm y\u00fcksek asiditeyi, kimi y\u00fcksek alkol\u00fc, kimi ise narin aromatik g\u00f6vdesini s\u0131v\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7ine oldu\u011fu gibi ak\u0131t\u0131r. Bu kolektif i\u015fleme bi\u00e7imi, \u015farab\u0131 tek bir \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn monok\u00fclt\u00fcr tektipli\u011finden kurtararak, o ba\u011f\u0131n ve o rekoltenin d\u00fcr\u00fcst, \u00e7ok sesli ve taklit edilemez birer mikro-teruar imzas\u0131n\u0131 kadehlere ta\u015f\u0131r.<\/p>\r\n

\u0130mparatorluk Ferman\u0131ndan Bug\u00fcne: Heuriger K\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn Do\u011fu\u015fu<\/h2>\r\n

Bug\u00fcn Viyana’n\u0131n sarp yama\u00e7lar\u0131ndaki Grinzing veya Nussdorf banliy\u00f6lerinde kadeh kald\u0131r\u0131lan her \u015farap evi, g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc 1784 y\u0131l\u0131nda Habsburg \u0130mparatoru II. Joseph taraf\u0131ndan yay\u0131nlanan bir imparatorluk ferman\u0131ndan al\u0131r. \u0130mparator, yay\u0131nlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu tarihi kanunla, Viyanal\u0131 yerel ba\u011f \u00fcreticilerine kendi \u00fcrettikleri yeni hasat \u015faraplar\u0131 (Heuriger), kendi evlerinin bah\u00e7elerinde veya mahzenlerinde, hi\u00e7bir a\u011f\u0131r vergiye t\u00e2bi olmadan ve narin yerel so\u011fuk \u015fark\u00fcteri lezzetleri e\u015fli\u011finde halka do\u011frudan satma hakk\u0131 tan\u0131m\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Kap\u0131lar\u0131n \u00fczerine as\u0131lan o narin \u00e7am dallar\u0131 (bunlara Buschen denir), i\u00e7eride o y\u0131l\u0131n taze, canl\u0131 ve ya\u015fayan s\u0131v\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n barda\u011fa s\u00fcz\u00fclmeye haz\u0131r oldu\u011funu m\u00fcjdeleyen as\u0131rl\u0131k birer ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k sembol\u00fcd\u00fcr. Bu yasal koruma koridoru sayesinde Heuriger, saray elitizminin o steril kurallar\u0131n\u0131 y\u0131rtarak \u015farab\u0131 halk\u0131n, m\u00fczi\u011fin ve ne\u015feli kamusal etkile\u015fimin dikey birer ak\u0131\u015fkan\u0131 haline getirmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\r\n

\"\u015earap\"<\/p>\r\n

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Yaz\u0131dan Viyana kent s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7indeki 1.700 d\u00f6n\u00fcml\u00fck bir alan\u0131n ba\u011f alan\u0131 olarak ayr\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve korundu\u011funu \u00f6\u011frendim. \u015eehrin ba\u011f ve \u015farap yolculu\u011fu Romal\u0131lara kadar uzanmakla birlikte, ba\u011flar\u0131n korunmas\u0131na y\u00f6nelik kararlar\u0131n al\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 tarih 1784. Habsburg \u0130mparatoru II. Jozef bu tarihte Viyana\u2019n\u0131n Heurigen b\u00f6lgesinde ba\u011fc\u0131l\u0131kla u\u011fra\u015fanlar\u0131n do\u011frudan m\u00fc\u015fterilere vergiden muaf \u015farap sat\u0131\u015f\u0131 yapmas\u0131na izin veren bir kanun yay\u0131nlam\u0131\u015f. Simgesel olarak tabelalar\u0131na, \u00fczerlerinde ye\u015fil yaprakl\u0131 dallar as\u0131l\u0131 tavernalar bu \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma ruhsat\u0131na sahip olduklar\u0131n\u0131 ilan ediyorlar. Bu uygulama ne sa\u011fl\u0131yor? Viyana\u2019da \u00fcretilen \u015faraplar\u0131n %70\u2019i gibi \u00f6nemli bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc yine Viyana\u2019da t\u00fcketiliyor. Ne vergi ne de lojistik maliyetleri \u015farab\u0131n fiyat\u0131nda yer alm\u0131yor. Hem \u00fcreteni hem de \u015farapseveri koruyan bu yakla\u015f\u0131ma imrenmemek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn m\u00fc?<\/p>\r\n

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Another law supporting the decision taken in 1784 was passed in 1905 and a construction ban was placed on the green area surrounding Vienna. In this way, Vienna has the title of one of the greenest cities in the world today. Viennese people continue to enjoy living in a city that is at peace with the environment.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

BBC\u2019nin yaz\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n paralelinde bizim kentimizde, \u0130stanbul\u2019da, benzer ba\u015fl\u0131klara nas\u0131l yakla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131za bakal\u0131m. Asl\u0131nda bakmak istemiyoruz, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc ne g\u00f6rece\u011fimizi biliyoruz. \u0130stanbul, son elli y\u0131l\u0131 bir yana ay\u0131racak olursak, tarih boyunca kendisine yeten bir tar\u0131msal varl\u0131\u011fa sahip olmu\u015f. Elbette imparatorluklar\u0131n ba\u015fkenti olmas\u0131n\u0131n getirdi\u011fi cazibeyle bir uluslararas\u0131 ticaret merkezi kimli\u011fi ta\u015f\u0131m\u0131\u015f ve hem \u00fclkenin hem de d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en iyi \u00fcr\u00fcnleri \u0130stanbul\u2019da sergilenmi\u015f. Ama \u0130stanbullular bostanlar\u0131yla, tarlalar\u0131yla, ba\u011flar\u0131 ve meyvelikleriyle kendi ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 kentin i\u00e7lerine kadar sokulan tar\u0131msal alanlardan elde etmi\u015fler. \u0130stanbul\u2019un ye\u015fil alan\u0131n\u0131 korumak herkesin diline pelesenk olmu\u015f, ama kentin de\u011ferlenen arazisi o kadar cazip gelmi\u015f ki, bizim bug\u00fcn bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda a\u011flayacak gibi oldu\u011fumuz k\u00f6t\u00fc gecekondu kent ortaya \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\r\n

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Bir mikro tarih\u00e7inin \u00fclkemizin k\u00f6kl\u00fc ila\u00e7 \u015firketlerinden birisi i\u00e7in yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 monografik \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmada Pendik il\u00e7esindeki ba\u011flarda \u00fcretilen \u00fcz\u00fcmlerden yap\u0131lan \u015faraplar\u0131n Tekel \u015farap uzmanlar\u0131yla e\u015fg\u00fcd\u00fcml\u00fc olarak de\u011ferlendirildi\u011fini ve iyile\u015ftirme \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n\u0131n yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 okumu\u015ftum. 1930\u2019lu y\u0131llara uzanan bu deneyim kentin gelece\u011fine \u015fekil verecek \u015fehircilik anlay\u0131\u015flar\u0131yla bulu\u015fmu\u015f olsayd\u0131, belki bizler bug\u00fcn \u0130stanbul ba\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n \u015faraplar\u0131n\u0131 i\u00e7me f\u0131rsat\u0131na sahip olurduk. \u00dclkemizde iktidar\u0131n \u015faraba nas\u0131l bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 biliyoruz. \u015earap severler i\u00e7tikleri her yudumda, d\u00fcnyada e\u015fi az g\u00f6r\u00fcnen oranlarda bir vergi \u00f6d\u00fcyorlar. Ama bizim Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6neminden beri gelen ve halen de korunan \u2018ev i\u00e7i t\u00fcketimiyle s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 \u015farab\u0131 \u00fcretici ruhsat\u0131 olmadan \u00fcretme hakk\u0131m\u0131z\u2019 oldu\u011funu da hat\u0131rlatal\u0131m. Asl\u0131nda Avusturya\u2019n\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131, bu olana\u011fa sahip olanlar\u0131n, kendi yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015farab\u0131 ruhsata ba\u011flamak ve kendi mek\u00e2n\u0131nda sat\u0131\u015f\u0131na izin verip vergi almamaktan ibaret. D\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnsenize, bu olana\u011fa sahip oldu\u011funda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u015farap \u00fcreticilerinin sunabilecekleri \u015farap \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fi ve verginin devre d\u0131\u015f\u0131 kalmas\u0131yla t\u00fcketicinin nas\u0131l rahatlayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131.<\/p>\r\n

Viyana’n\u0131n o saray elitizmini y\u0131rtarak \u015farab\u0131 halkla bulu\u015fturan Heuriger k\u00fclt\u00fcrleri, tarla harmanlar\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7ok sesli enolojik yap\u0131lar\u0131 ve ne\u015feli kamusal sosyalle\u015fme rit\u00fcelleri ilginizi \u00e7ekiyorsa, blogumuzdaki di\u011fer nitelikli sosyo-k\u00fclt\u00fcrel ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar\u0131m\u0131za da g\u00f6z atabilirsiniz:<\/p>\r\n