{"id":990968,"date":"2024-04-17T23:08:51","date_gmt":"2024-04-17T20:08:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=990968"},"modified":"2024-04-17T23:08:52","modified_gmt":"2024-04-17T20:08:52","slug":"buz-mu-tatli-mi-sarap-mi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/buz-mu-tatli-mi-sarap-mi\/","title":{"rendered":"Ice? Sweet? Wine?"},"content":{"rendered":"
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M.Vedat E\u011e\u0130LMEZ \u0130STANBUL 2024
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Bu \u00fc\u00e7 \u00f6zelli\u011fi bir arada bulunduran bir i\u00e7ki varm\u0131d\u0131r? diye sorarsan\u0131z cevab\u0131 Almanca konu\u015fan \u00fclkelerde \u2018\u2019Eiswein\u2019\u2019<\/em><\/strong> , Frans\u0131zca konu\u015fan \u00fclkelerde \u2018\u2019Vin de glace\u2019\u2019<\/em><\/strong> , \u0130ngilizce konu\u015fan \u00fclkelerde ise \u2018\u2019Icewine\u2019\u2019<\/em><\/strong> d\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde Kanada\u2019n\u0131n da \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli \u00fcretici hatta lider konumuna geldi\u011fi buz \u015faraplar\u0131n\u0131n bug\u00fcn bildi\u011fimiz anlamda ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer 1700 lerde Almanyad\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Roma d\u00f6neminin yazar ve do\u011fa bilimcilerinden Gaius Plinius Secundus\u2019un (MS 23 \u2013 MS 79) yaz\u0131-lar\u0131ndan baz\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm \u00e7e\u015fitlerinin ilk dondan \u00f6nce hasat edilmedi\u011fi anla-\u015f\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde Romal\u0131 yazar Marcus Valerius Martialis (Martial) de \u00fcz\u00fcmlerin donduktan sonra top-lanmas\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6nermi\u015ftir. Bu kan\u0131tlardan en az\u0131ndan benzer \u015faraplar\u0131n Romal\u0131lar d\u00f6neminden beri yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 anlamaktay\u0131z.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Almanya ve Avusturya d\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki di\u011fer Avrupa \u00fclkelerinde bu denli elveri\u015fli hava ko\u015fullar\u0131 her zaman olu\u015fmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in bu \u00fclkelerde eiswein<\/em><\/strong> \u00fcretimi \u00e7o\u011fu senelerde yap\u0131lmamakta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ama so\u011fuk hatta dondurucu hava denince akl\u0131m\u0131za ilk gelen \u00fclkelerden biri Kanada de\u011fil mi ?

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Kanada\u2019da buz \u015farab\u0131 olay\u0131 Alman m\u00fcltecilerin geleneklerini de beraberinde getirmeleri sonucu, ilk kez 1811 de Ontario\u2019 da Alman Johann Schiller ile ba\u015fl\u0131yor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Modern anlamda ise 1933 de sonra eren i\u00e7ki yasa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan Kanada\u2019da ilk \u015farap \u00fcretim ruhsat\u0131n\u0131 1974 y\u0131l\u0131nda alan Inniskillin firmas\u0131 ile ba\u015fl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde eiswein<\/em><\/strong> he said Ontario<\/strong> lider konumunda bir b\u00f6lge olmu\u015ftur. Ontario da y\u0131ll\u0131k \u00fcretim 850 ton civar\u0131ndad\u0131r. Kanada, Almanya ve Avusturya\u2019da kendine \u00f6zg\u00fc \u00f6zelliklere sahip olan eiswien<\/em><\/strong>, \u00f6zellikle so\u011fuk iklimi olan ba\u015fka \u00fclkelerde da \u00fcretilmekle beraber, bu \u00fc\u00e7 b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00fcreticiye hac\u0131m ve kalite olarak yakla\u015fabilen yoktur (Inniskillin \u2018in ilk \u015farab\u0131 -1984- Kanada\u2019da dahi etiketinde \u2018\u2019icewine\u2019\u2019 yerine  \u2018\u2019eiswein\u2019\u2019 yaz\u0131yor)<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Buz \u015farab\u0131 deyince hangi \u00fcz\u00fcmler?<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

K\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 ve beyaz \u00fcz\u00fcmlerden de \u00fcretilebilen eiswein<\/em><\/strong> ; genellikle y\u00fcksek aromatik \u00f6zelliklere ve y\u00fcksek asiditeye sahip vitis vinifera<\/em><\/strong> \u00e7e\u015fitlerinden yap\u0131l\u0131yor, en ba\u015fta gelen \u00e7e\u015fitler Riesling, Gew\u00fcrztraminer, Vidal Blanc (melez), Sylvaner ve hatta Cabernet Franc. Bu \u00fcz\u00fcmleri birer m\u00fccevher olarak g\u00f6r\u00fcrsek, eiswein<\/em> \u2018i adeta \u2018\u2019alt\u0131n suyu\u2019\u2019 olarak nitelendirebiliriz.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Burada k\u0131saca bir melez olan Vidal Blanc\u2019 dan bahsedeyim. Vidal Blanc ; Ugni Blanc ve  Seibel \u00fcz\u00fcmlerinin bir melezidir. Kal\u0131n ve dayan\u0131kl\u0131 kabuklar\u0131 bu \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn ge\u00e7 hasat yap\u0131lmas\u0131na izin verir. Do\u011fal asiditesinin yan\u0131nda mango ve li\u00e7i aromalar\u0131 ile \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kar.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beyaz \u00fcz\u00fcmlerden yap\u0131lan buz \u015faraplar\u0131 gen\u00e7ken, soluk sar\u0131 yada a\u00e7\u0131k alt\u0131n renkli iken, ya\u015fland\u0131k\u00e7a derin amber ve koyu alt\u0131n sar\u0131s\u0131 rengini al\u0131yor. K\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 varyetaller ise a\u00e7\u0131k bordo, hatta rose \u015faraba yak\u0131n pembelikte oluyor. 
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\u2018\u2019Liquid GOLD coming from the COLD\u2019\u2019<\/em><\/strong><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Icewine \u00fcretimi her y\u00f6n\u00fcyle \u00e7ok zorlu ve en \u00f6nemlisi riskli bir s\u00fcre\u00e7tir. Konvansiyonel \u015faraplarda hasat genellikle Eyl\u00fcl ay\u0131nda yap\u0131l\u0131rken, eiswein<\/em> yap\u0131m\u0131nda hasata ancak \u0131s\u0131n\u0131n eksi derecelere d\u00fc\u015fmesi ve ilk don i\u015faretlerinin olu\u015fmas\u0131ndan sonra karar verilir. Bu \u015fartlar y\u0131ldan y\u0131la de\u011fi\u015fir, kimi y\u0131llarda  Aral\u0131k \u2018 ta, kimi y\u0131llarda ise Ocak yada \u015eubat aylar\u0131nda meydana gelir.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Her\u015feyden \u00f6nce reg\u00fclasyonlar gere\u011fi hasad\u0131n Almanya\u2019 da en az -7\u00ba<\/sup>C da, Kanada da ise en az -8\u00ba<\/sup> C da yap\u0131lmas\u0131 \u015fartt\u0131r. Bu temperat\u00fcrlerde \u00fcz\u00fcmlerdeki \u015feker 35-39\u00ba Brix lere gelir (<\/em>1 derece brix, 100 gram \u00e7\u00f6zeltideki 1 gram \u015feker miktar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6sterir-W\/W)<\/em> .<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hasat \u00fcz\u00fcmler tamamen donmu\u015f halde yap\u0131l\u0131r ve t\u00fcm i\u015flemin k\u0131sa s\u00fcrede bitirilmesi gerekir. Bu nedenle hasat gece yar\u0131s\u0131ndan sonra ba\u015flar ve g\u00fcne\u015f do\u011fmadan yani \u00fcz\u00fcmlerdeki don \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fclmeden bitirilir.Toplanan \u00fcz\u00fcmler yine donmu\u015f vaziyette proses edilir ve preslere al\u0131n\u0131r. Bu anda \u00fcz\u00fcmler buz gibi so\u011fuk ve adeta mermi gibi serttir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Alttaki resime dikkatli bakarsan\u0131z \u00fcz\u00fcmlerin \u00fczerinin ince \u00e7elik tel bir a\u011f ile kapland\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcrs\u00fcn\u00fcz. Brix derecesi 39 lara \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f bir \u00fcz\u00fcm bal gibidir korunmas\u0131 laz\u0131md\u0131r. Zira dondurucu havada yiyecek bulamayan ku\u015flar ile \u00f6zellikle Almanya\u2019da yaban domuzlar\u0131n\u0131n bulabilece\u011fi en de\u011ferli besindir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00dcz\u00fcmler donuk iken preslenmesinin alt\u0131nda yatan neden asl\u0131nda i\u015fin p\u00fcf noktas\u0131<\/strong>d\u0131r. B\u00f6ylece donuk vaziyetteki su i\u00e7eri\u011fi buz olarak preste kal\u0131r, ama  \u00fcz\u00fcm \u015fekeri ve asidleri fermentasyon suyuna ge\u00e7er. B\u00f6ylece miktar olarak \u00e7ok az ama \u00e7ok konsantre bir \u015f\u0131ra elde edilir. En iyisi bir \u00f6rnekle a\u00e7\u0131klamak galiba, Sofra \u015farab\u0131nda 1 ml \u015farap    1-1.5 adet \u00fcz\u00fcm tanesinden elde edilirken ice wine da ise 1 ml \u015farap i\u00e7in 10 adet \u00fcz\u00fcm tanesine ihtiya\u00e7 vard\u0131r<\/em><\/strong>. Bu \u00f6rnek ayn\u0131 zamanda buz \u015faraplar\u0131n\u0131n neden pahal\u0131 oldu\u011funu ve neden 70 dl.lik \u015fi\u015feler yerine 37.5 dl, hatta 20 dl.lik k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u015fi\u015felerde sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 da a\u00e7\u0131klar umar\u0131m. 
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Buz \u015farab\u0131 yap\u0131m\u0131nda hasad\u0131n do\u011fru zamanda yap\u0131lmas\u0131 en \u00f6nemli noktalardan birisidir.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00dcz\u00fcmler toplanmadan \u0131s\u0131n\u0131n -10\u00b0C ila    -13\u00b0C larda olmas\u0131 idealdir. Bu \u0131s\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcmlerde optimum \u015feker oran\u0131 ve optimum aroma d\u00fczeyinin olu\u015fmas\u0131na yard\u0131mc\u0131 olur. Yandaki tablo \u0131s\u0131 derecesine ba\u011fl\u0131 olarak \u00fcz\u00fcmdeki \u015feker oran\u0131n\u0131n nas\u0131l de\u011fi\u015fti\u011fini a\u00e7\u0131kca g\u00f6steriyor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

D\u0131\u015f Is\u0131<\/strong><\/td>\u015eeker i\u00e7eri\u011fi<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
-6\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>29%<\/td><\/tr>
-7\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>33%<\/td><\/tr>
-8\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>36%<\/td><\/tr>
-9\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>39%<\/td><\/tr>
-10\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>43%<\/td><\/tr>
-11\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>46%<\/td><\/tr>
-12\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>49%<\/td><\/tr>
-13\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>52%<\/td><\/tr>
-14\u00b0C<\/strong><\/td>56%<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Preslenerek elde edilen \u015f\u0131ra son derece tatl\u0131d\u0131r ve fermentasyonu son derece zordur. Bu denli y\u00fcksek \u015feker oran\u0131 fermantasyonu da \u00e7ok yava\u015f hale getirir. Pres deyince hemen belirteyim, eiswein<\/em><\/strong> yap\u0131m\u0131nda kullan\u0131lan hidrolik presler normal \u015faraplarda kullan\u0131lan preslere g\u00f6re \u00e7ok daha y\u00fcksek bas\u0131n\u00e7 ile presleme yapar. Zira yukar\u0131da da belirttim, \u00fcz\u00fcmler donmu\u015f vaziyettedir ve \u00fcz\u00fcm taneleri adete mermi gibi serttir.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bu zorlu hasat s\u00fcrecinin ard\u0131ndan preslenen \u00fcz\u00fcmler haftalar boyu fermentasyona, ard\u0131ndan da bir ka\u00e7 ayl\u0131k f\u0131\u00e7\u0131 ya\u015fland\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131na tabi tutulur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Eiswein\u2019 da reg\u00fclasyonlar, spesifikasyonlar;<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Buz \u015farab\u0131 yapan belliba\u015fl\u0131 \u00fclkeler olan Almanya, Avusturya ve Kanada\u2019da \u00e7ok s\u0131k\u0131 reg\u00fclasyonlar uygulanmaktad\u0131r. Bunlar \u00fcreticinin mutlaka uymas\u0131 gereken standartlard\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kanada\u2019 da \u00fcretilen buz \u015faraplar\u0131nda Vintners Quality Alliance<\/em><\/strong><\/a> (VQA)<\/em><\/strong> standartlar\u0131na   uyulmas\u0131 zorunludur. Bir \u00f6rnek vermek gerekirse \u00fcz\u00fcmlerde \u015feker d\u00fczeyi 35\u00b0 Brix<\/a>\u2019 in alt\u0131nda ise<\/p>\n\n\n\n

kesinlikle buz \u015farab\u0131nda kullan\u0131lamaz. Bir ba\u015fka olmazsa olmaz ise; buz \u015farab\u0131 tamamen do\u011fal olarak \u00fcretilmelidir, yapay dondurma y\u00f6ntemine (Cryoextraction)<\/strong> kesinlikle izin verilmez.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                 <\/a>  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

VQA Reg\u00fclasyonlar\u0131ndan baz\u0131lar\u0131; <\/em><\/strong> <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bu standartlar\u0131n sa\u011flan\u0131p sa\u011flanmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 (aynen ila\u00e7 \u00fcretimindeki GMP \u015fartlar\u0131nda oldu\u011fu gibi)  VQA yetkilileri taraf\u0131ndan randomize bir \u015fekilde denetlenir ve analiz edilir ;<\/p>\n\n\n\n