{"id":990977,"date":"2024-04-18T10:53:16","date_gmt":"2024-04-18T07:53:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=990977"},"modified":"2026-07-15T13:09:25","modified_gmt":"2026-07-15T10:09:25","slug":"bir-sarap-semti-galata","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/bir-sarap-semti-galata\/","title":{"rendered":"Osmanl\u0131 \u015eairlerinin M\u0131sralar\u0131ndaki Bir \u015earap Semti: GALATA"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Mey \u00fc mahb\u00fbb ile \u2018ay\u015f\u0131n koma elden Kalatanun<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Hel\u00e2k\u00ee b\u00e2de i\u00e7 \u2018\u00f6mr-i \u2018az\u00eezi virmedin b\u00e2da<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Hel\u00e2k\u00ee<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Keyfini s\u00fcr Hel\u00e2k\u00ee, doyman laz\u0131m Galata\u2019n\u0131n \u015farab\u0131yla g\u00fczellerine<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Ruhunu teslim edip r\u00fczg\u00e2ra kap\u0131l\u0131p gitmeden \u00f6nce.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u0130stanbul’un o as\u0131rl\u0131k liman k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131nda gezinirken, kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za kozmopolit birer meyhane k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcyle yo\u011frulmu\u015f Galata’n\u0131n asil tarihi \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. XVI. y\u00fczy\u0131l \u015fairlerinden Hel\u00e2k\u00ee \u0130stanbul ve Bursa\u2019da ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f. G\u00fczel kad\u0131nlara olan d\u00fc\u015fk\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc sebebiyle Hel\u00e2k\u00ee (s\u00f6zc\u00fck anlam\u0131 bitkin d\u00fc\u015fmektir) ad\u0131n\u0131 ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6ylenir. T\u00fcrk\u00e7e tamlamalar\u0131n Div\u00e2n Edebiyat\u0131’nda kullan\u0131lmas\u0131 ve Acem etkisinden uzakla\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 konusunda \u00f6nc\u00fc \u015fairlerden biri olmu\u015ftur. \u015eiirlerinde \u015farap ve \u015farab\u0131 \u00e7evreleyen kavramlar\u0131 kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00f6rnekler \u00f6nemli bir yer tutar. Yaz\u0131m\u0131za \u00f6nce k\u0131sa bir ansiklopedik \u00f6zetle ba\u015flayal\u0131m, sonra da tarih i\u00e7indeki Galata’ya birlikte uzanal\u0131m.<\/p>\r\n

Ceneviz Surlar\u0131 ve Bizans R\u0131ht\u0131mlar\u0131nda Amfora Trafi\u011fi<\/h2>\r\n

Galata\u2019n\u0131n bir “\u015farap semti” olarak tescillenmesi, yaln\u0131zca Osmanl\u0131 d\u00f6neminin o renkli meyhane ya\u015fant\u0131s\u0131yla s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 de\u011fildir; semtin enolojik k\u00f6kenleri Bizans \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu ve Cenoval\u0131 denizcilerin bu r\u0131ht\u0131mlarda kurdu\u011fu o devasa ticaret kolonilerine kadar uzan\u0131r. Akdeniz\u2019in, Ege adalar\u0131n\u0131n ve Marmara k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n en se\u00e7kin salk\u0131mlar\u0131ndan s\u00fcz\u00fclen s\u0131v\u0131lar, killi topraktan oyulmu\u015f binlerce amforan\u0131n i\u00e7inde Galata r\u0131ht\u0131mlar\u0131na indirilir ve burada g\u00fcmr\u00fcklenerek Bizans saraylar\u0131na ya da Avrupa limanlar\u0131na g\u00f6nderilirdi. Cenevizliler, bu s\u0131v\u0131 ticaretini o denli kurumsalla\u015ft\u0131rm\u0131\u015flard\u0131 ki, surlar\u0131n g\u00f6lgesindeki g\u00fcmr\u00fck depolar\u0131nda \u015farab\u0131n kalitesini denetleyen \u00f6zel tad\u0131m memurlar\u0131 (\u00f6nolog atalar\u0131) g\u00f6rev yapar, sahte ya da suland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f \u00fcr\u00fcnlerin limana sokulmas\u0131n\u0131 yasaklayan sert ticari kanunlar uygulan\u0131rd\u0131. Galata, y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca Akdeniz d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ve en dinamik enolojik kav\u015fak noktalar\u0131ndan biri olarak hayatta kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\r\n

Koltuk Meyhaneleri ve Osmanl\u0131 Galata\u2019s\u0131n\u0131n Kozmopolit Kimli\u011fi<\/h2>\r\n

Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu d\u00f6neminde Galata, Suri\u00e7i’nin o muhafazak\u00e2r ve resm\u00ee idar\u00ee atmosferine taban tabana z\u0131t, dikey, \u00f6zg\u00fcr ve kozmopolit birer e\u011flence ve gastronomi vahas\u0131 olarak parlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Semtin dar ve lo\u015f sokaklar\u0131nda konu\u015flanan me\u015fhur “koltuk meyhaneleri” ve lisansl\u0131 “gedikli meyhaneler”, yaln\u0131zca gayrim\u00fcslim tebaan\u0131n de\u011fil; yabanc\u0131 el\u00e7ilik g\u00f6revlilerinin, gemicilerin, zanaatk\u00e2rlar\u0131n ve her s\u0131n\u0131ftan \u0130stanbullunun bir araya gelerek kadehlerini dost\u00e7a kald\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u0131ra d\u0131\u015f\u0131 birer sosyal entegrasyon merkeziydi. Bu mek\u00e2nlarda sunulan \u015faraplar, M\u00fcrefte\u2019nin r\u00fczgarl\u0131 ba\u011flar\u0131ndan, Bozcaada\u2019n\u0131n (Tenedos) as\u0131rl\u0131k k\u00fct\u00fcklerinden ve Erdek yama\u00e7lar\u0131ndan f\u0131\u00e7\u0131larla Galata Liman\u0131’na ta\u015f\u0131n\u0131rd\u0131; yanlar\u0131nda “tapas” k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn \u0130stanbul’daki asil atalar\u0131 say\u0131lan o me\u015fhur tuzlu bal\u0131k, lakerda ve taze mezelerle servis edilirdi. Galata meyhaneleri, kentin o \u00e7ok k\u00fclt\u00fcrl\u00fc, ya\u015fayan, ne\u015feli ruhunun kadehlerle sars\u0131lmaz bir bi\u00e7imde m\u00fch\u00fcrlendi\u011fi en asil s\u0131\u011f\u0131nakt\u0131.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u0130stanbul\u2019da Galata semtinin ortaya \u00e7\u0131kma s\u00fcreci, Roma \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun ikiye ayr\u0131l\u0131p Bizans olmas\u0131ndan \u00f6ncesine uzan\u0131yor. Her ne kadar Venedikliler zaman zaman b\u00f6lgede hakimiyet kurmu\u015f olsa da, Galata yakla\u015f\u0131k bin y\u0131ll\u0131k bir d\u00f6nemi Ceneviz kontrol\u00fcnde ge\u00e7irmi\u015f. Elbette Galata IV. Ha\u00e7l\u0131 Seferi gibi \u0130stanbul\u2019da Bizans\u2019\u0131n siyasi etkisinin zay\u0131flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00f6nemlerden ister istemez etkilenmi\u015f, ama Ceneviz toplulu\u011fu yerini korumu\u015f.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

II. Mehmet\u2019in \u0130stanbul\u2019u fethetmesinden sonra elbette ki Galata\u2019da \u00e7e\u015fitli de\u011fi\u015fimler olmu\u015f; ama ticaretin devaml\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flamak i\u00e7in Osmanl\u0131 Devleti, Cenevizlilerin Galata b\u00f6lgesindeki mevcudiyetine (ve kendi d\u00fczenlerini korumalar\u0131na) kurallara ba\u011fl\u0131 olarak izin vermi\u015f. \u0130zleyen y\u00fczy\u0131llarda ise Galata \u0130stanbul\u2019un zengin ve modern b\u00f6lgesi olma vasf\u0131n\u0131 korumu\u015f, hatta y\u0131ld\u0131z\u0131 parlam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Galata\u2019n\u0131n liman \u00e7evresi, denizcilerin ve ticaret erbab\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fiyle her zaman \u00e7ok uluslu bir kimlik ta\u015f\u0131m\u0131\u015f. Galata, meyhaneleri sayesinde \u0130stanbul\u2019un en renkli e\u011flence b\u00f6lgelerinden birisi olmu\u015f. \u00d6rne\u011fin, 16. y\u00fczy\u0131l \u015fairlerinden L\u00e2tifi, fetihten \u00f6nce Galata\u2019n\u0131n ba\u015ftan sona meyhanelerle kapl\u0131 oldu\u011funu yazar. Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n en \u00f6nemli gezgini Evliya \u00c7elebi ise, kendi d\u00f6neminde, yani 17. y\u00fczy\u0131lda, her biri 500-600 ki\u015fi misafir edebilen yakla\u015f\u0131k 200 meyhane oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yler Galata\u2019da. Hat\u0131rlamakta yarar var, Osmanl\u0131\u2019da ruhsatl\u0131 meyhanelere \u2018gedikli meyhane\u2019, seyyar, ka\u00e7ak \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan meyhanelere de \u2018koltuk meyhanesi\u2019 denirmi\u015f ve d\u00f6nemin kanunlar\u0131 gere\u011fi bu i\u015fletmeler yaln\u0131zca Rum ve Ermeni tebaa taraf\u0131ndan i\u015fletilebilirmi\u015f.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u0130stanbul\u2019u en g\u00fczel anlatanlardan Re\u015fad Ekrem Ko\u00e7u, \u0130stanbul Ansiklopedisi\u2019nde Galata meyhaneleri i\u00e7in \u015funlar\u0131 s\u00f6yler: \u201cYak\u0131n zamana kadar halk\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011funu Rumlarla Frenklerin te\u015fkil etti\u011fi Galata, \u0130stanbul\u2019un fethinden bu yana y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca meyhanelerinin \u00e7oklu\u011fu, b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, hepsi Rum milletinden meyhanecilerinin de i\u015fret erbab\u0131n\u0131n keyfine uygun hizmetleri pekiyi bilmeleri ile me\u015fhurdu. Bu meyhaneler genellikle gelip ge\u00e7en denizci, bekar gurbet\u00e7i, maceraperest b\u0131\u00e7k\u0131n tiplerden olu\u015fan m\u00fc\u015fterilerinin zaman zaman cinsel tacizlerine ald\u0131rmayacak me\u015frepte personel kullan\u0131rlard\u0131.\u201d<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u0130stanbul\u2019un M\u00fcsl\u00fcman n\u00fcfusu i\u00e7in de Galata her zaman merak konusu olmu\u015f. \u015earaba d\u00fc\u015fk\u00fcnl\u00fckleriyle tan\u0131nan Divan \u015fairleri, ka\u00e7-g\u00f6\u00e7 kayg\u0131s\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131mayan Hristiyan toplulu\u011fu seyretmeye bir de isim takm\u0131\u015flar: \u201cGalata\u2019da Ayak Seyri.\u201d \u0130skender Pala, \u0130stanbul Ansiklopedisi\u2019nde kaleme ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 yaz\u0131s\u0131nda \u015f\u00f6yle \u00f6zetliyor ayak seyrini: \u201cAyak kelimesinin her iki anlam\u0131 da (ayak ve kadeh) manaya uygun d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7in deyimle\u015fmi\u015ftir \u2026 \u0130stanbullular\u0131n hem g\u00fczeller hem de i\u00e7ki amac\u0131yla Galata\u2019ya yapt\u0131klar\u0131 ka\u00e7amaklar \u015fiirlere konu olmaya ba\u015flay\u0131nca \u2018Galata\u2019da Ayak Seyri\u2019 Osmanl\u0131 gelene\u011fine girdi.\u201d<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Galata deyince akla hep meyhane gelir. Galata i\u00e7in s\u00f6ylenecek elbette daha \u00e7ok \u015fey var. Ama bu yaz\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 Yahya Bey\u2019in a\u015fa\u011f\u0131daki m\u0131sralar\u0131yla tamamlayal\u0131m:<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Gel ayak seyrini k\u0131l n\u00fb\u015f etmeyi peym\u00e2neden<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u00c2kil olanlar ka\u00e7ar m\u0131 z\u00e2hid\u00e2 meyh\u00e2neden<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Gel seyreyle g\u00fczelleri i\u00e7ip e\u011flenirken \u015farap kadehinden<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Kafas\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan sofular ka\u00e7ar m\u0131 hi\u00e7 meyhaneden<\/p>\r\n

Galata\u2019n\u0131n o sur g\u00f6lgelerindeki Bizans amforalar\u0131ndan s\u00fcz\u00fclen tarihi g\u00fcmr\u00fck trafi\u011fi, koltuk meyhanelerinin o kozmopolit tad\u0131m haf\u0131zas\u0131 ve \u0130stanbul\u2019un as\u0131rl\u0131k s\u0131v\u0131 semtleri ilginizi \u00e7ekiyorsa, blogumuzdaki di\u011fer nitelikli teknik ve tarihsel ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar\u0131m\u0131za da g\u00f6z atabilirsiniz:<\/p>\r\n