{"id":991153,"date":"2024-08-03T10:36:17","date_gmt":"2024-08-03T07:36:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=991153"},"modified":"2026-07-23T16:41:25","modified_gmt":"2026-07-23T13:41:25","slug":"uzumun-ayakla-ezilmesi-ilkellik-mi-kalite-mi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/uzumun-ayakla-ezilmesi-ilkellik-mi-kalite-mi\/","title":{"rendered":"Crushing Grapes with Feet: Primitive or Quality?"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Teknolojinin \u015farap \u00fcretimine katk\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 herhalde akl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131nda hi\u00e7 kimse yads\u0131maz. K\u0131saca geriye bak\u0131p haf\u0131zam\u0131z\u0131 tazeleyecek olursak fermantasyonun arkas\u0131nda yatan bilimsel ger\u00e7e\u011fin fark\u0131na varmam\u0131z\u0131n \u00fczerinden daha iki y\u00fczy\u0131l ge\u00e7memi\u015f. Bu ge\u00e7en s\u00fcre boyunca hem verimlili\u011fi hem niteli\u011fi art\u0131racak pek \u00e7ok geli\u015fmeyle tan\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f \u015farap d\u00fcnyas\u0131. Asl\u0131nda kabaca on bin y\u0131ll\u0131k \u015farap ser\u00fcveninin son iki y\u00fcz y\u0131l\u0131nda meydana gelen de\u011fi\u015fim daha \u00f6nceki bin y\u0131llarla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lmayacak kadar zengin.<\/p>\r\n

\u00d6nce konuya teknik a\u00e7\u0131dan bakal\u0131m.<\/p>\r\n

Mekanik Bask\u0131ya Kar\u015f\u0131 \u0130nsan Taban\u0131n\u0131n Enolojik Esnekli\u011fi<\/h2>\r\n

\u00dcz\u00fcm\u00fcn insan aya\u011f\u0131yla ezilmesi rit\u00fceli, pop\u00fcler k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn ve turistik festivallerin y\u00fczeysel birer nostalji \u00f6gesi olman\u0131n \u00e7ok \u00f6tesinde, ak\u0131\u015fkanlar mekani\u011fi ve enoloji kimyas\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan muazzam bir m\u00fchendislik dehas\u0131 bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131r. Modern \u015farap fabrikalar\u0131nda kullan\u0131lan y\u00fcksek tonajl\u0131 mekanik presler, metal k\u0131r\u0131c\u0131lar ve vidal\u0131 pompalar \u00fcz\u00fcm salk\u0131mlar\u0131na dikey ve kontrols\u00fcz bir bas\u0131n\u00e7 uygular. Bu mekanik agresyon, \u00fcz\u00fcm tanesinin kalbinde sakl\u0131 olan o minik \u00e7ekirdeklerin k\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131na (par\u00e7alanmas\u0131na) yol a\u00e7ar. K\u0131r\u0131lan \u00e7ekirdeklerin i\u00e7indeki h\u00fccre \u00e7eperlerinden \u015f\u0131raya s\u0131zan “sekonder metabolitler” ve polimerize olmam\u0131\u015f ham ya\u011f asitleri, \u015faraba geri d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fc olmayan, damakta b\u00fcz\u00fcc\u00fc ve son derece agresif bir ac\u0131l\u0131k (bitter\/astringent karakter) a\u015f\u0131lar. \u0130nsan aya\u011f\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131ndaki o etli, esnek ve yumu\u015fak doku ise, kal\u0131n kabuklar\u0131 patlat\u0131p renk ve aromay\u0131 \u015f\u0131raya ge\u00e7irecek kadar bir kuvvet uygularken, \u00e7ekirdekleri k\u0131rmayacak o milimetrik bas\u0131n\u00e7 s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131n\u0131 do\u011fal bir s\u00fczge\u00e7 gibi korur. Zaten bu yakla\u015f\u0131mlan \u00fcretilen yeni nesil presler de insan hareketini esas alarak tasarlan\u0131r.<\/p>\r\n

Portekiz Lagar Havuzlar\u0131 ve Kontroll\u00fc Fenolik Ekstraksiyon<\/h2>\r\n

D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en prestijli, en uzun \u00f6m\u00fcrl\u00fc ve en g\u00f6vdeli \u015farap stillerinden biri olan Portekiz\u2019in ikonik Vintage Port \u015faraplar\u0131n\u0131n arkas\u0131nda, granit veya mermerden oyulmu\u015f “Lagar” ad\u0131 verilen o geni\u015f, s\u0131\u011f antik ta\u015f havuzlar\u0131n ve insan g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fcn as\u0131rl\u0131k saltanat\u0131 yatar. Salk\u0131mlar lagarlara d\u00f6k\u00fcld\u00fckten sonra zanaatk\u00e2rlar yan yana dizilerek saatler boyunca ritmik ad\u0131mlarla \u00fcz\u00fcmleri ezerler. Bu s\u0131\u011f havuz yap\u0131s\u0131 ve insan v\u00fccudunun yayd\u0131\u011f\u0131 o do\u011fal, narin s\u0131cakl\u0131k (yakla\u015f\u0131k 36 derece) fermentasyonun ilk a\u015famalar\u0131nda kabuklardaki renk maddelerinin (antosiyaninlerin) ve tanenlerin \u015f\u0131raya maksimum d\u00fczeyde ama son derece ipeksi bir bi\u00e7imde transfer olmas\u0131n\u0131, yani fenolik ekstraksiyonu sa\u011flar. Mekanik preslerin tektiple\u015ftirici ve so\u011fuk paslanmaz \u00e7elik \u00e7eperlerinde asla yakalanamayacak bu mikroh\u00fccresel temas, kadehlerimize s\u00fcz\u00fclen s\u0131v\u0131n\u0131n o an\u0131tsal g\u00f6vde in\u015fas\u0131n\u0131 ve y\u0131llanma potansiyelini garanti alt\u0131na alan ya\u015fayan birer enoloji an\u0131t\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\r\n

Bug\u00fcn\u00fcn Panoramas\u0131<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Bug\u00fcn\u00fcn \u015farap \u00fcretim s\u00fcre\u00e7lerine bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda basit ve kompleks pek \u00e7ok arac\u0131n yayg\u0131n bi\u00e7imde kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. \u00dcstelik \u00e7o\u011fu mekanik olan bir \u00f6nceki nesil \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcmlerin yerini \u00f6nce optik ve elektronik donan\u0131mlar\u0131n ald\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131, \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczdeki y\u0131llarda da yapay zek\u00e2yla entegre olan bir sonraki nesil \u00fcr\u00fcnlerin ortaya \u00e7\u0131kaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131n i\u015faretlerini g\u00f6zl\u00fcyoruz. B\u00fct\u00fcn bu de\u011fi\u015fimin i\u00e7inde gelelim ba\u015fl\u0131ktaki son derece basit soruya: \u00dcz\u00fcmleri ayakla ezmenin bug\u00fcn\u00fcn d\u00fcnyas\u0131nda yeri var m\u0131?<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u015earap \u00fcretiminde faaliyet g\u00f6steren firmalar\u0131n neredeyse tamam\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc sap\u0131ndan ay\u0131rma ve s\u0131kma g\u00f6revlerini bir arada \u00fcstlenen bir donan\u0131mla i\u015flerini g\u00f6r\u00fcrler. \u00d6te yandan \u0130ber Yar\u0131madas\u0131\u2019ndaki ve Kaliforniya\u2019daki kimi \u00fcreticilerin bu mekanik \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcm yerine geleneksel y\u00f6ntem olan ayakla ezmeyi tercih ettiklerini ve bunu \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 da payla\u015f\u0131mlar\u0131ndan g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. \u00d6zellikle sinematografik a\u00e7\u0131dan \u00e7ok cazip olan bu \u015f\u00f6len acaba \u015farab\u0131n niteli\u011fine yans\u0131yor mu?<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\"Kalite\"<\/figure>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Evet, diyor bu y\u00f6ntemi tercih edenler. Mesela, diyorlar, ba\u015fparma\u011f\u0131n\u0131zla i\u015faret parma\u011f\u0131n\u0131z\u0131n aras\u0131na s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc s\u0131karak patlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda uygulad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z bas\u0131nc\u0131 siz kontrol edersiniz. Bunu bir mengene gibi bir mekanik s\u0131k\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmayla yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda bas\u0131n\u00e7 \u00fczerindeki kontrol\u00fc sa\u011flamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmaz. Dolay\u0131s\u0131yla mekanik olarak ezilen \u00fcz\u00fcmlerin \u00e7ekirdeklerinin ezilmesinin yarataca\u011f\u0131 tanen etkisini kontrol alt\u0131nda tutman\u0131n yolu, bu s\u00fcreci insan\u0131n inisiyatifine b\u0131rakmaktan ge\u00e7er. Bu yolu tercih edenlerden birisi, \u00f6nce salk\u0131mlar\u0131 b\u00fct\u00fcn olarak atarak ayakla ezmeyi sonra salk\u0131mlar\u0131 ay\u0131rmay\u0131 tercih ettiklerini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u00c7ekirde\u011fin ezilmesinin tanenin dozunu olumsuz anlamda art\u0131rma etkisini konu\u015furken, bir ba\u015fka \u015faraphanede mevsimin cilvesiyle damakta yumu\u015fak olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fckleri Cabernet Sauvignon i\u00e7in ezme esnas\u0131nda ayak bask\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 art\u0131rarak bu kez \u00e7ekirdekten taneni art\u0131rmada yararlanma tart\u0131\u015fmas\u0131 yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Producers who choose foot crushing, which philosophically parallels the increasingly popular biodynamic farming practices worldwide, argue that it offers advantages in skin contact with grape juice. They affirm that the skin contact achieved through foot crushing contributes to the complex identity of the wine.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

One can't help but wonder: From a hygiene perspective, isn't it necessary to consider the dirt from people's feet in foot-crushed wines? The answer is ready: Vineyards are already open spaces. Dust carried by the atmosphere and bird droppings are among the many external factors that naturally inhabit the grape skin throughout the growing season, and none of these pose a danger to the final product for human consumption. The reasons include the low oxygen levels reduced by fermentation, alcohol conversion from sugar, and the acid in wine preventing pathogenic growth. Amidst all this, foot dirt doesn't hold much significance.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Uzun laf\u0131n k\u0131sas\u0131, h\u00e2l\u00e2 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc ayakla ezmeyi tercih eden bir gelenekselci grup \u015farap d\u00fcnyas\u0131nda yerini koruyor ve hatta say\u0131s\u0131 giderek de art\u0131yor. Bir de itiraf etmek gerekir ki ayakla ezmeyi seyretmenin insanda uyand\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 farkl\u0131 duygular da yok de\u011fil!<\/p>\r\n

\u0130nsan taban\u0131n\u0131n o narin dokunu\u015fuyla \u00fcz\u00fcm \u00e7ekirdeklerini k\u0131rmadan y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fclen bu asil zanaatkar \u00fcretim felsefesi, antik ta\u015f lagarlar\u0131n fenolik ekstraksiyon s\u0131rlar\u0131 ve \u015farap tarihi ilginizi \u00e7ekiyorsa, blogumuzdaki di\u011fer nitelikli teknik ve arkeolojik ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar\u0131m\u0131za da g\u00f6z atabilirsiniz:<\/p>\r\n