{"id":991300,"date":"2024-11-03T23:49:16","date_gmt":"2024-11-03T20:49:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=991300"},"modified":"2024-11-03T23:51:07","modified_gmt":"2024-11-03T20:51:07","slug":"kadehimi-ancak-sarap-izleri-tasiyan-sogumus-ellerimden-alabilirsiniz","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/kadehimi-ancak-sarap-izleri-tasiyan-sogumus-ellerimden-alabilirsiniz\/","title":{"rendered":"You\u2019ll Have to Take My Glass From My Cold, Wine-Stained Hand"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Everywhere you look these days, people are turning away from alcohol. First there was Dry January. Now there\u2019s Sober October. Who knows what month the rhyme scheme will come for next? Parched March? Modest August?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I admire these teetotalers. I too have abstained from liquor for extended periods and felt the clean poise and composure that replaces the low-grade hum of constant alcohol in the system. I met my wife during one such cleareyed abstention, so I know its value.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But I will not be joining the abstainers. I\u2019m unwilling to part with wine.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>

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It\u2019s not because I\u2019m chasing tipsiness \u2014 as someone who writes about wine, I often taste 50 to 60 glasses in a day, though I always spit them out and, in six years of drinking wine seriously, I haven\u2019t once been drunk on it. But in a life that too often feels stripped of magic \u2014 whether because of our political hostility, the radical inequality in our society or the instantaneity required of everything \u2014 wine is a passport to transcendence. If water is life-giving, wine is psychedelic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sometimes, the aroma alone is enough to kick off the time travel. Last\u00a0summer, my wife and I took our daughter to Istanbul. We visited Wayana, a wine bar that focuses on indigenous Turkish grapes, and I asked for a glass of Kalecik Karasi, the country\u2019s flagship red varietal, which makes light-bodied, red-fruited reds sometimes compared with pinot noir. When I stuck my nose in the glass, however, I wasn\u2019t in Burgundy. I wasn\u2019t even in Istanbul. I was 6 years old, in my grandmother\u2019s kitchen in Soviet Minsk, smelling the tart sweetness of her raspberry jam, made from berries we\u2019d picked in the countryside, as it bubbled away on the stove, the sunlight streaming through the window. Then, necessarily, the transport was over \u2014 miraculous for being so fleeting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For me, wine will always be a connection to a Europe I lost as a child and to a time when things moved as slowly as an aging bottle of wine. Jorge Rosas, the head of the venerable port producer Ramos Pinto, told me that he has in his cellar a bottle from 1815, known as the Waterloo vintage. \u201cWhen do you open it?\u201d he asked. \u201cWho do you open it with?\u201d That a bottle of wine can survive for more than 200 years fills me with faith about what else can endure as our lives change so relentlessly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wine is also a merciless fastener to the present. Two bottles of the same wine, if well made, have never tasted the same. Recently asked which of his wines was his favorite, the winemaker Rodolphe de Pins, of Ch\u00e2teau de Montfaucon in France\u2019s southern Rh\u00f4ne Valley, said, \u201cIt depends on the day, the meal, the friend, the occasion.\u201d The thrill of every discovery comes with a sacrifice: It will never happen exactly like this again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Research\u00a0has shown\u00a0that consuming even small amounts of alcohol can be bad for one\u2019s health and everyone from ordinary consumers to influencers seems to be listening. A neighbor of mine with a 6,500-bottle cellar that used to make connoisseurs drool has just sold off most of it and gone off the sauce. Family wineries are closing and big growers in California\u2019s Central Valley are ripping out hundreds of acres. And the wine world, sometimes divided between the militant natural-wine geeks on one side and the high-nosed classicists on the other, too often forgets to remind drinkers that either can be a path to enchantment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the news gets grim, I turn to winemakers like Louis Barruol of Ch\u00e2teau de Saint Cosme in Gigondas, whose family has made wine for 15 generations. Just imagine: 15 consecutive times throughout history, a new descendant of his family has decided to yoke himself to a monastic life that\u2019s equal parts science and art, experiment and alchemy. Winemakers like Mr. Barruol venerate the land that his family has farmed in the southern Rh\u00f4ne Valley since 1490, the animals and plants that live in symbiosis with it, and the communities that do the same.\nAs Mr. Barruol recently wrote, his aim is to \u201cmake things more beautiful and show ever greater respect.\u201d How many people in your life are talking about beauty and respect for tradition these days? Listening to someone like Mr. Barruol, words like \u201csacredness\u201d lose any edge of irony.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As I move through life, this sense of the sublime is what I want to feel above all. It\u2019s what I want my kids to feel \u2014 there\u2019s no glass of wine in my house that doesn\u2019t pass under their noses. And if I might be around for a few years less so that we can have access to this kind of transcendence, I can\u2019t think of a more noble lesson to teach them about what, in the end, matters.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bug\u00fcnlerde nereye baksan\u0131z, insanlar\u0131n alkolden uzakla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyorsunuz. \u0130lk olarak Dry January vard\u0131. \u015eimdi ise Sober October. Kafiye \u015femas\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131radaki hangi ay\u0131 se\u00e7ece\u011fini kim bilebilir? Parched March? Modest August? Bu ayya\u015flardan etkileniyorum. Ben de uzun s\u00fcreler boyunca i\u00e7kiden uzak kald\u0131m ve sistemde s\u00fcrekli olarak bulunan d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck yo\u011funluklu alkol u\u011fultusunun yerine gelen o temiz denge ve sakinli\u011fi…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":991304,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-991300","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"yoast_head":"\nKadehimi, Ancak \u015earap \u0130zleri Ta\u015f\u0131yan So\u011fumu\u015f Ellerimden Alabilirsiniz. - Wayana Wine Bar<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/kadehimi-ancak-sarap-izleri-tasiyan-sogumus-ellerimden-alabilirsiniz\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Kadehimi, Ancak \u015earap \u0130zleri Ta\u015f\u0131yan So\u011fumu\u015f Ellerimden Alabilirsiniz. - Wayana Wine Bar\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Bug\u00fcnlerde nereye baksan\u0131z, insanlar\u0131n alkolden uzakla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyorsunuz. \u0130lk olarak Dry January vard\u0131. \u015eimdi ise Sober October. Kafiye \u015femas\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131radaki hangi ay\u0131 se\u00e7ece\u011fini kim bilebilir? Parched March? Modest August? Bu ayya\u015flardan etkileniyorum. 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