{"id":991885,"date":"2025-09-13T22:14:59","date_gmt":"2025-09-13T19:14:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=991885"},"modified":"2025-09-13T22:15:00","modified_gmt":"2025-09-13T19:15:00","slug":"yeni-bir-apelasyon-volcanic-origin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/yeni-bir-apelasyon-volcanic-origin\/","title":{"rendered":"A Kind of New Appellation: Volcanic Origin"},"content":{"rendered":"
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In the world of wine, there are themes that have always existed but needed the right moment to come into the spotlight. Among these, the acceptance of the \u201cOld Vine\u201d concept and the recognition of Natural Wines as a category come first to mind. We can now add the emergence of volcanic regions\u2014long admired for their distinctive soils\u2014as the latest link in this chain, marked by a new certification.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>

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The Emergence of Volcanic Wines<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Let\u2019s hear the story from John Szabo, MS, author of Volcanic Wines, who played a key role in shaping this category:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis movement has been gaining strength for a long time. It used to be a niche category, but especially after the first International Volcanic Wine Conference in 2018, I began to see growing interest from the trade. Volcanic wines offer a wonderful storytelling opportunity for producers, retailers, and sommeliers. It\u2019s a hook, a way to spark curiosity.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

And in June, the first label for wines of volcanic origin was created. This will really help consumers notice volcanic wines and actively seek them out.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The certification is open to any producer in the world. It\u2019s similar to an appellation. Once the soils are analyzed and the wines certified, they can carry the seal on their bottles.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Volcanic Wine Certification<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The nonprofit association VINORA, based in Auvergne, France, has launched a certification program to define volcanic wines, subject them to rigorous scientific analysis, and attach economic value to the term \u201cvolcanic wine.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Established in 2019, the initiative is backed by a scientific committee of volcanologists, researchers, and winemakers. The committee ensures that wineries using the label have scientifically validated terroirs and that their vineyards grow on recognized volcanic soils (basalt, trachyte, andesite, pozzolan, etc.).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the words of VINORA president Jean-Baptiste Deroche:\n\u201cVolcanic origin is not a marketing concept; it is a seal of authenticity that distinguishes wines born from truly volcanic terroirs or proven volcanic influence. Since 2019, our work has confirmed that wines from volcanic soils have their own geological and sensory identity, and greater resistance to drought. The label offers a tasting experience\u2014smoky notes, salinity, marked freshness, minerality\u2014that goes beyond grape variety or appellation.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So far, around 30 wineries worldwide have obtained the \u201cVolcanic Origin\u201d label.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enormous Diversity<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Deroche points out, volcanic wines may share certain taste lines, but volcanic soils are anything but uniform. Describing them as a single entity is like calling everything simply \u201cblue.\u201d Age, elevation, rainfall, and proximity to the sea all shape their character.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some volcanic regions are well known\u2014Spain\u2019s Canary Islands, Sicily\u2019s Etna, and California\u2019s Lake County. Others, such as Alsace in France or Veneto in Italy, are celebrated in different ways. Even within a single region, soils can vary dramatically from vineyard to vineyard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jacopo Maniaci, general manager at Tenuta di Fessina on Mt. Etna, explains:\u201c\n\u201cWe have at least 20 soil variations in our vineyards. Each slope has a different history. The north is sandy and fragmented, the higher altitudes are rocky, the lower ones thinner. The eruptions have created a unique, incredibly complex landscape.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

At Rovittello, their headquarters, 11 hectares include two soil types\u2014rocky and sandy\u2014dating back 15,000 years. By contrast, Etna\u2019s east side is very young: the Valle del Bove collapsed 9,000 years ago and is still regenerating soils through constant volcanic activity. The south is the oldest part, millions of years old, where clay and limestone appear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Szabo adds: \u201cThree-million-year-old volcanic soils can be rock-hard and devoid of organic matter, while 1,000-year-old ones can be full of it. Not every volcanic soil grows great grapes, of course. But wines from the right volcanic soils share distinct qualities\u2014and that\u2019s what people are responding to.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Strengths in the Vineyard and Glass<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Almanya Baden\u2019de Konrad Salwey, volkanik k\u00f6kenli ve l\u00f6s-kire\u00e7 kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131 topraklarda Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir ve Chardonnay yeti\u015ftiriyor. Volkanik toprak 12 milyon y\u0131l \u00f6nce olu\u015fmu\u015f. \u201c\u00c7ok ya\u011fmur ya\u011fd\u0131\u011f\u0131nda bile %70 e\u011fimli ba\u011flarda erozyon sorunu ya\u015fam\u0131yoruz,\u201d<\/em> diyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In California\u2019s Lake County, 10,000 acres of vineyards sit at 350\u20131,000 meters on one-million-year-old volcanic rocks and newer deposits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Megan Hoberg of the Lake County Winegrape Commission notes:\u201cOur volcanic origins are younger and more geologically active. Grapes develop thicker skins and denser phenolics. The wines are high in acidity, firm in structure, and distinctly mineral.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jonathan Walters of Brassfield Estate adds:\n\u201cThese wines beg for food. Our Rh\u00f4ne varietals give dark fruit, mineral tones, and an amazing saline edge.\u201d<\/em> \nIn Oregon\u2019s Dundee Hills, volcanic Jory soils date back 15\u201317 million years. Jackson Holstein of Granville Wine Co. says: \n\u201cIf you don\u2019t reduce canopy early, yields suffer. But if you do, the fruit quality is much better. These soils demand precision.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Challenges of Volcanic Soils<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite their strengths, volcanic soils make life hard for growers. Hoberg points out: \n\u201cExcellent drainage limits vigor and creates small, concentrated berries. But rocky, uneven terrain makes work more labor-intensive.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Santorini\u2019de Gaia Wines\u2019in kurucusu Yiannis Paraskevopoulos ise %100 volkanik topraklarda \u015fiddetli kurakl\u0131kla m\u00fccadele ediyor: \u201cToprakta kil yok, organik madde yok. Su tutam\u0131yoruz. \u0130yi y\u0131llarda bile verim d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck. Son \u00fc\u00e7 y\u0131lda hasat felaket seviyesinde; olmas\u0131 gerekenin onda biri.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Still, he is hopeful:\n\u201cAssyrtiko is a warrior grape. Even here, it produces extraordinary wines. And with EU support, we\u2019re building a water treatment plant to irrigate vineyards. It\u2019ll be running in five years.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Salwey, though not facing drought on that scale, admits volcanic soils struggle more than loess in dry years:\n\u201cThey\u2019re tougher to farm, but the wines show incredible character. They\u2019re also easy to market\u2014exciting and accessible.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Volcanic Wines in Turkey<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we say volcanic regions, Cappadocia immediately comes to mind. Thanks to its volcanic identity, the phylloxera louse never penetrated, allowing indigenous vines to survive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Viticulture here has been continuous. Producers like Kavakl\u0131dere and Turasan, along with many smaller ones, keep the tradition alive. We don\u2019t yet know how they view the certification system, but in terms of distinctiveness, it\u2019s certainly worth exploring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another volcanic area is Kula in Manisa. Producers like Yan\u0131k \u00dclke also meet the conditions for certification. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Time will tell whether Turkish producers will take that step.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Future of Volcanic Wines<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Volcanic vineyards make up just 2% of the world\u2019s wine, but their impact far exceeds their share.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Maniaci from Etna puts it:\n\u201cDry farming is tough, but the benefits outweigh the hardships. Drainage is excellent, minerals act like natural fertilizers, crater dust constantly renews the soil. The profile is unique: low pH, high acidity, low alcohol, sharp and fresh.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In other words, exactly what today\u2019s wine world is craving: a simple, powerful story\u2014distinctive, easy to understand, and with the added bonus of lower alcohol.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>

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\u015earap d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n asl\u0131nda her zaman bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olan ama \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131 i\u00e7in uygun ko\u015fullar\u0131n olgunla\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 bekleyen ba\u015fl\u0131klar vard\u0131r. Bunlar aras\u0131nda aras\u0131nda \u2018Old Vine\u2019 konseptinin kabul g\u00f6rmesi, Nat\u00fcrel \u015earaplar\u0131n ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir kategori olmas\u0131 ilk akla gelenler. Uzun s\u00fcredir \u00f6zg\u00fcn toprak yap\u0131s\u0131yla \u015farap severlerin dikkatini \u00e7eken volkanik b\u00f6lgelerin ayr\u0131 bir sertifikasyonla kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131n\u0131 da bu ba\u015fl\u0131klara…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":991887,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-991885","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"yoast_head":"\nYeni Bir Apelasyon: Volcanic Origin - Wayana Wine Bar<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/yeni-bir-apelasyon-volcanic-origin\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Yeni Bir Apelasyon: Volcanic Origin - Wayana Wine Bar\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u015earap d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n asl\u0131nda her zaman bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olan ama \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131 i\u00e7in uygun ko\u015fullar\u0131n olgunla\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 bekleyen ba\u015fl\u0131klar vard\u0131r. 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