{"id":992254,"date":"2026-03-14T18:09:36","date_gmt":"2026-03-14T15:09:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=992254"},"modified":"2026-03-16T16:10:53","modified_gmt":"2026-03-16T13:10:53","slug":"suryani-bagcilik-ve-sarapcilik-kulturunu-dogru-degerlendirmek","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/suryani-bagcilik-ve-sarapcilik-kulturunu-dogru-degerlendirmek\/","title":{"rendered":"The Syriac Viticulture and Wine Tradition: A Living Heritage of Upper Mesopotamia"},"content":{"rendered":"
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n

It was the summer of 2025. As usual, I was following developments in the wine world as closely as possible, selecting the news items that deserved to be shared in the WAYANA Bulletin and grouping together those that required commentary.<\/p>\n

Among the fresh headlines was the announcement that Cyprus\u2019s Commandaria wine had been inscribed on UNESCO\u2019s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The news itself was already worth sharing. But I also remembered that this was only the second wine-related entry on the UNESCO list. The first had been Georgia\u2019s traditional Qvevri winemaking method, which had undeniably elevated Georgia\u2019s standing in the global wine world.<\/p>\n

Naturally, we included the announcement in the next issue of the WAYANA Bulletin. I have no way of knowing how many readers noticed the significance of that headline, but I am certain it did not create a wide resonance. Yet for me, the news planted a persistent question in my mind:<\/p>\n

Could anything related to wine from Turkey become a candidate for UNESCO recognition?<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

A Brief Assessment of the Situation<\/strong><\/p>\n

Before addressing this question, it is worth recalling, very briefly, what happened to wine in the late Ottoman period and during the early decades of the Turkish Republic.<\/p>\n

The first major trauma experienced by wine production in these lands began with the Armenian deportations of 1915. Armenian families who had long been engaged in viticulture and winemaking across Anatolia were forcibly displaced from their homes. Soon after, when the young Republic implemented the population exchange with Greece, the viticultural communities of Western Anatolia disappeared as well, along with centuries of accumulated knowledge.<\/p>\n

Turkey attempted to close this knowledge gap by bringing in foreign experts, sending young students abroad for training, and eventually establishing university programs dedicated to viticulture and oenology.<\/p>\n

State-run TEKEL wineries were established to ensure that viticulture would remain a secure source of income for rural populations. TEKEL purchased the entire grape harvest, guaranteeing a market for growers. In other words, Turkey invested considerable effort in developing viticulture and grape production. Yet producing fine wine was never among the primary priorities. That ambition remained largely confined to a handful of idealists and a very small number of private producers.<\/p>\n

The realization that wine could generate significant added value did not emerge until the late 1940s. However, the elections of 1950 abruptly cut short this momentum.<\/p>\n

After the 1950 elections, policies began to shift in line with changing political expectations and electoral dynamics. Roughly fifty years later, TEKEL was privatized, and soon afterwards wine was grouped together with other alcoholic beverages and subjected to the same restrictive regulations. From the 1990s onward, while small private initiatives began to advance rapidly in producing higher-quality wines, the sector simultaneously found itself treated as an undesirable industry by the state.<\/p>\n

In summary, despite being one of the countries with the richest grape diversity in the world, Turkey has only a single geographically indicated wine made from a specific grape variety: the Adakaras\u0131 wine of Av\u015fa Island. This reality is perhaps the clearest illustration of the neglect and obstacles the sector has faced.<\/p>\n

After this brief overview, it is worth taking a closer look at Syriac viticulture and winemaking, which we believe could deserve recognition as a cultural heritage.<\/p>\n

The Cultural Dimension of Syriac Viticulture and Wine<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Syriacs are a people of Northern Mesopotamian origin whose presence on the historical stage stretches back more than three thousand years. Before the spread of Christianity, they identified themselves as Arameans and spoke the Aramaic language. Syriac, derived from this ancient language, remains a living language used within the community today. Syriacs are also widely regarded as one of the earliest peoples to adopt Christianity.<\/p>\n

The region known as Tur Abdin, where Syriac communities have historically lived, extends from present-day Midyat toward the provinces of Mardin and \u015e\u0131rnak. Within Syriac tradition, viticulture and winemaking occupy a special place and have been an inseparable part of the region\u2019s life for nearly three millennia.<\/p>\n

This tradition has been passed down from father to son and from mother to daughter. Wine has always found its place on the tables of Syriac households. Grapes such as Mazrona and Karku\u015f, whose character is shaped by the harsh climate of the region, have come to life again inside earthen vessels. Alongside staple foods stored in household cellars\u2014such as tarhana, tomato paste, and dried provisions\u2014wine has long been regarded as an essential element of the table.<\/p>\n

Seen from this perspective, treating Syriac wine as a product competing with modern commercial wines risks overlooking its cultural significance. The true importance of Syriac viticulture and winemaking lies in the fact that it represents a tradition that has continued uninterrupted for perhaps one hundred, perhaps one hundred and fifty generations\u2014and that it remains alive today.<\/p>\n

The very survival of such a refined cultural product in a region marked by hardship and repeated waves of migration is, in itself, proof of its resilience.<\/p>\n

Distinctive Characteristics of Syriac Wines<\/strong><\/p>\n

Syriac wines are produced using the region\u2019s local grape varieties. Among the most notable are Mazrona, Karku\u015f, B\u0131lb\u0131zeki, and Zeyti. In more recent years, additional varieties such as Gavdoni, K\u0131tt\u0131lnafs, Ra\u015fe Gurnik, and Msabik Heworo have also been incorporated. Moreover, grapes from neighboring regions\u2014such as Bo\u011fazkere and \u00d6k\u00fczg\u00f6z\u00fc from Diyarbak\u0131r and Elaz\u0131\u011f\u2014hold an important place within the Syriac wine world.<\/p>\n

From a viticultural standpoint, all of the region\u2019s heritage varieties are cultivated as goblet-trained vines, commonly known as bush vines. A significant proportion of these vineyards consist of old vines. In newly established vineyards, however, modern viticultural methods and trellising systems are increasingly being adopted.<\/p>\n

In terms of winemaking practices, two main approaches can be observed.<\/p>\n

In newly established wineries, production methods largely resemble those used by modern wine producers elsewhere. Grape ripeness is carefully monitored during harvest, Brix levels are measured, and fermentation is conducted in temperature-controlled tanks under close supervision.<\/p>\n

In contrast, wines produced by families for their own consumption follow traditional methods passed down through generations. After harvest, the grapes are placed in sacks and crushed by foot. Fermentation proceeds under natural conditions, without the addition of commercial yeast, and is monitored primarily through observation and experience.<\/p>\n

This form of production is fundamentally rooted in practical knowledge and inherited tradition.<\/p>\n

The Future of Syriac Wine<\/strong><\/p>\n

A tradition that has survived for three thousand years under every conceivable circumstance is unlikely to surrender easily.<\/p>\n

Yet the Syriac Viticulture and Wine Tradition Project could bring this heritage to an entirely new level of recognition and strength.<\/p>\n

The roadmap ahead is clear. The first step is to secure national registration for the Syriac Viticulture and Wine Tradition. Such processes are usually carried out under the auspices of local administrations or professional organizations. The fact that this has not yet been done is striking. The relevant authority for registration is the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office.<\/p>\n

Following national registration, the Directorate General of Living Heritage and Cultural Activities within the Ministry of Culture and Tourism may, if deemed appropriate, propose the Syriac Viticulture and Wine Tradition as a candidate for UNESCO\u2019s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. If the required documentation is prepared thoroughly and submitted properly, international recognition could follow.<\/p>\n

In Conclusion<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Syriac Viticulture and Wine Tradition has now entered our agenda.<\/p>\n

The first step is to find an institution willing to undertake the national registration process. Local municipalities, chambers of commerce, provincial governorships, and district administrations are all potential candidates.<\/p>\n

The question now is whether any institution will step forward to take on this responsibility.<\/p>\n

\n

 <\/p><\/div>\n

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