{"id":994967,"date":"2026-10-03T23:00:08","date_gmt":"2026-10-03T20:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=994967"},"modified":"2026-10-03T23:12:11","modified_gmt":"2026-10-03T20:12:11","slug":"horoskarasi-uzumu-kilisten-hebrona-bir-uzumun-izinde","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/horoskarasi-uzumu-kilisten-hebrona-bir-uzumun-izinde\/","title":{"rendered":"Horoskaras\u0131: Following a Grape from Kilis to Hebron"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

There is a folk saying in Turkish: when a piece of property was asked, \u201cWho do you belong to?\u201d, it replied, \u201cEven I don\u2019t know whose I am.\u201d We might ask much the same question of grapevines: how do we decide where a grape comes from? Do we look at where it is grown? Its name? The memory of the people who cultivate it? Or its DNA, which today can tell us entirely different stories? When it comes to Horoskaras\u0131, none of these answers seems sufficient on its own.<\/p>\n

Today, we know Horoskaras\u0131 as a local grape of Kilis. So much so that it is widely known locally as Kiliskaras\u0131. This is hardly surprising when we consider how many Turkish grape varieties take their names from a place followed by karas\u0131, meaning \u201cthe black grape of\u201d. But the name whose trail we will follow here is Horos(z)karas\u0131.<\/p>\n

The grape\u2019s recent history repeatedly takes us back to Kilis. Horoskaras\u0131 was used for winemaking during the Republican period, but later largely lost that identity and survived thanks to its value as a high-quality drying grape. That remained the case until, many years later, it began to be considered once again as a wine grape in Kilis. Now, however, DNA test results suggest that the story of Horoskaras\u0131 may extend far beyond Kilis.<\/p>\n

\"Horoskaras\u0131<\/h2>\n

Horoskaras\u0131 or Antepkaras\u0131?<\/h2>\n

A new chapter in the story began in 2025. Our dear friend, wine expert and writer G\u00f6knur G\u00fcndo\u011fan, brought a question raised by Ni&Ce Vineyards in Kilis to Jos\u00e9 Vouillamoz, one of the world\u2019s leading experts in grape genetics:<\/p>\n

Is Horoskaras\u0131 really a distinct grape variety, or is it the same grape as Antepkaras\u0131, grown in neighbouring Gaziantep?<\/strong><\/p>\n

The question is hardly surprising. Two neighbouring regions, two black grapes with similar names, and communities that have been in contact with one another for centuries... In 2025, Bestami G\u00fcn of Ni&Ce sent samples from both grapes to Vouillamoz for DNA profiling. The results provided a fairly clear answer to the original question:<\/p>\n

Horoskaras\u0131 and Antepkaras\u0131 are not the same grape.<\/strong><\/p>\n

According to Vouillamoz, the official name of Antepkaras\u0131 is Sergikaras\u0131, and the two varieties have different DNA profiles. But the real surprise comes next.<\/p>\n

From Kilis to Hebron<\/h2>\n

The DNA profile of Horoskaras\u0131 was compared with grape samples analysed in previous studies, revealing that the grape we call Horoskaras\u0131 in Kilis shares the same DNA profile as samples previously recorded under the names Darawishi and Marawani. Suddenly, the genetic twins of a variety we had thought of as native to Kilis appeared hundreds of kilometres to the south. But this finding immediately raises another question:<\/p>\n

When and how did the same grape spread across such a wide geography?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Vouillamoz stresses that we do not yet know the answer. He also describes the finding, for now, as a new and unpublished result, which brings us to the story behind the name Horoskaras\u0131.<\/p>\n

Not Horoz, but Horos<\/h2>\n

In T\u00fcrkiye, the name of this variety is often written as Horozkaras\u0131. At first glance, this seems perfectly plausible: horoz, meaning \u201crooster\u201d, combined with kara, referring to a black grape. Vouillamoz, however, points us elsewhere. Historical records tell us that the ancient city of Cyrrhus, just south of Kilis within the borders of present-day Syria, was also known as Kyrrhos\/Khoros. Vouillamoz puts forward the hypothesis that the name Horos may be connected with this historic city. It is important to stress that, for now, this remains only a hypothesis.<\/p>\n

From Kilis to Ankara: Feridun Topalo\u011flu<\/h2>\n

When we look at the recent history of Horoskaras\u0131, we encounter two different stories. The first unfolds in the grape\u2019s own region. Old purchasing records from the TEKEL Wine Factory in Kilis, together with contemporary press reports, show that Horoskaras\u0131 was specifically purchased for winemaking and was regarded as a grape of economic value.<\/p>\n

The second story takes place some 700 kilometres away, at the Atat\u00fcrk Forest Farm in Ankara. And Feridun Topalo\u011flu appears in both.<\/p>\n

Originally from Kilis, Topalo\u011flu studied winemaking in France and became one of the important figures in viticulture and winemaking during the Republican era in T\u00fcrkiye. It would be unfair to explain his commitment to the grape of his home region merely as local loyalty. Topalo\u011flu believed in Horoskaras\u0131\u2019s value as a wine grape and worked with it both at the TEKEL Wine Factory in Kilis and at the Atat\u00fcrk Forest Farm Wine Factory, which he managed.<\/p>\n

Horoskaras\u0131 Takes to the Skies<\/h2>\n

Feridun Topalo\u011flu\u2019s memoirs add another surprising stop to the journey of Horoskaras\u0131: for a period, wine produced at the Atat\u00fcrk Forest Farm was served in small bottles on Turkish Airlines flights. A local grape from Kilis travelled to Ankara, became wine at the Atat\u00fcrk Forest Farm and from there made its way onto Turkish Airlines aircraft. Considering that we are talking about a grape that is almost being rediscovered today, the place Horoskaras\u0131 had reached half a century ago is quite remarkable. Then that connection disappeared.<\/p>\n

How Does a Grape Disappear?<\/h2>\n

As the structure of wine production in Kilis and its surroundings changed, state-owned production facilities disappeared and demand for wine grapes declined, the fate of Horoskaras\u0131 changed as well. It gradually lost its identity as a wine grape, yet survived thanks to consumer demand for it as a drying grape.<\/p>\n

If there is a lesson to draw from this, it is that a vine does not necessarily have to be uprooted for a grape to disappear. The grape itself may survive while the culture of production surrounding it vanishes. The vineyard remains, the grapes are dried, but a few generations later even the memory that they were once made into wine can be lost. Something like this happened to Horoskaras\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"Horoskaras\u0131<\/h2>\n

Feridun Returns to Kilis<\/h2>\n

The present-day chapter of the story brings us back to Kilis. Ni&Ce Vineyards is once again making wine from Horoskaras\u0131. The resulting wine bears a name deliberately chosen to connect past and present: Cuv\u00e9e FRDN.<\/strong> FRDN is a reference to Feridun Topalo\u011flu. The 2024 vintage Cuv\u00e9e FRDN is the first wine made from 100% Horoskaras\u0131, with a total production of just 532 bottles.<\/p>\n

The two ends of the story are thus joined together. Decades later, Feridun Topalo\u011flu\u2019s name has returned to Kilis on the bottle of a wine once again made from Horoskaras\u0131.<\/p>\n

So, Where Does Horoskaras\u0131 Come From?<\/h2>\n

For now, we cannot give a definitive answer.<\/p>\n

Kilis? The historic Khoros and northern Syria, immediately to the south of Kilis? A broader Eastern Mediterranean geography extending as far as present-day Palestine? Or is Horoskaras\u0131 the shared heritage of a much older world, one in which people, goods, vines and grape varieties circulated continuously across lands that today belong to different countries?<\/p>\n

DNA tells us that grapes with the same genetic identity are found across a geography extending far beyond Kilis. But it does not tell us the direction in which they travelled. Did Darawishi move south from Kilis? Did Horoskaras\u0131 arrive in Kilis from the south? Or did these grapes, which we now know by different names, spread from a much older common source? We do not know.<\/p>\n

Perhaps this is the most fascinating part of the Horoskaras\u0131 story. In trying to understand a grape, we began with its name. The name took us from Horoz to Horos.<\/strong> Horos took us just across the border to Khoros\/Cyrrhus<\/strong> DNA took us farther south still, all the way to<\/strong> Hebron.<\/p>\n

When we look at its more recent past, however, the journey runs in the opposite direction: from Kilis to Ankara, to the Atat\u00fcrk Forest Farm, and from there onto Turkish Airlines aircraft.<\/strong><\/p>\n

And after all this, one of the most interesting things we know about Horoskaras\u0131 is still something we do not know: Where does Horoskaras\u0131 come from?<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Halk aras\u0131nda bir deyi\u015f vard\u0131r: Mala sormu\u015flar \u201cKiminsin?\u201d diye, \u201cBen de bilmem kiminim,\u201d demi\u015f. Ayn\u0131 \u015feyi asmalar i\u00e7in de \u015f\u00f6yle sorabiliriz: Bir \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn nereli oldu\u011funa nas\u0131l h\u00fckmederiz? Yeti\u015ftirildi\u011fi yere mi bakar\u0131z? Ad\u0131na m\u0131? Onu yeti\u015ftiren insanlar\u0131n haf\u0131zas\u0131na m\u0131? Yoksa bug\u00fcn art\u0131k bize bamba\u015fka hik\u00e2yeler anlatabilen DNA\u2019s\u0131na m\u0131? Horoskaras\u0131 \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fc s\u00f6z konusu oldu\u011funda, bu sorular\u0131n hi\u00e7birinin…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":994969,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_joinchat":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[403],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-994967","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-anadolu-uzumleri"],"yoast_head":"\nHoroskaras\u0131: Kilis\u2019ten Hebron\u2019a Bir \u00dcz\u00fcm\u00fcn \u0130zinde - Wayana Wine Bar<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Horoskaras\u0131 Kilis\u2019e mi ait? DNA analizi \u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcn izlerini Hebron\u2019a ta\u015f\u0131rken Feridun Topalo\u011flu, AO\u00c7 ve THY ge\u00e7mi\u015fi ba\u015fka bir hik\u00e2ye anlat\u0131yor.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/horoskarasi-uzumu-kilisten-hebrona-bir-uzumun-izinde\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Horoskaras\u0131: Kilis\u2019ten Hebron\u2019a Bir \u00dcz\u00fcm\u00fcn \u0130zinde - Wayana Wine Bar\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Horoskaras\u0131 Kilis\u2019e mi ait? 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