{"id":995567,"date":"2026-11-12T18:48:37","date_gmt":"2026-11-12T15:48:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/?p=995567"},"modified":"2026-11-12T18:48:37","modified_gmt":"2026-11-12T15:48:37","slug":"gelveri-saraplari-udo-hirsch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wayanatapas.com\/en\/gelveri-saraplari-udo-hirsch\/","title":{"rendered":"G\u00fczelyurt's One-of-a-Kind Winery: GELVER\u0130"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

Shopping for WAYANA's kitchen is part of our daily routine. Usually, it's Asuman, our chef (and my wife), who takes care of it, but that day the task fell to me. Before leaving home, I called WAYANA to check whether anything needed to be added to the list. Sina (my son) told me that we had an early reservation and, since he was on his own, it would be better if I stopped by the restaurant first. Shortly after I arrived, a Swiss family of four walked in.<\/p>\n

Once our guests were seated, I went over to welcome them and asked how they had found us. \u201cWe searched online for where we could find Gelveri wines, and that's how we came across you,\u201d they explained. Their specific interest in Gelveri suggested that they were natural wine enthusiasts. Coincidentally, just two evenings earlier, we had hosted an online conversation about Gelveri and had the opportunity to meet Udo and Hacer, even if only virtually.<\/p>\n

Experiencing these two encounters in such quick succession made me realize that it was time to write another article about Gelveri. After all, Gelveri has a great deal to tell. This article explores some of those stories.<\/p>\n

\"K\u00fcp\"<\/h2>\n

Udo Hirsch: The Architect of Gelveri<\/h2>\n

I couldn't help smiling when I realized I'd titled this section \u201cThe Architect of Gelveri.\u201d Udo is, quite literally, an architect by profession. But he has never regarded architecture as merely the construction of buildings. Instead, he has preferred to develop projects that bring him into contact with nature. A look at his earlier experiences makes this easier to understand.<\/p>\n

The first time I came across Udo Hirsch's name was somewhere entirely different: in a book about A\u015f\u0131kl\u0131 H\u00f6y\u00fck. During his travels in Anatolia, he had written a letter expressing concern that A\u015f\u0131kl\u0131 H\u00f6y\u00fck lay within the area that would be flooded by a proposed dam. I remembered that letter after meeting Udo. In retrospect, it was a particularly telling example of the many dimensions of his character.<\/p>\n

From Udo's own account, we know that his first visit to Turkey dates back to 1969. Among his earliest projects in the country was an initiative to protect the northern bald ibis, a bird that would later become widely known in Turkey as the kelaynak. His search for funding for the project brought him into contact with WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature). As he recalled during our conversation:At the time, I sent WWF a letter explaining the situation. After a while, they wrote back saying they had secured funding for the project. Frankly, it was a surprise. I hadn't expected it at all. Back then, WWF had a total staff of four. Today, it has become a huge organization with 520 people. <\/em><\/p>\n

Udo's relationship with WWF continued in the years that followed. He has participated in and helped implement wildlife conservation projects in many parts of the world, from Georgia and Bolivia to Madagascar.<\/p>\n

Udo and G\u00fczelyurt<\/h2>\n

Gelveri is the historical name used for centuries for what is now G\u00fczelyurt. There are different theories about its origins. Some researchers connect the name to ancient forms such as Karbala or Karvali, while local accounts suggest that it derives from a Greek expression meaning \u201cbeautiful water.\u201d Gelveri also carries the cultural memory of the Karamanli Orthodox community who lived here until the population exchange of 1924. One of the most evocative expressions of this heritage is Ta\u015f Mahal, the stone building where Udo and Hacer both live and produce their wines. Udo initially purchased the property jointly with a friend and later acquired the remaining share. Descendants of the family who once owned the house now live in Greece. A warm relationship has developed between Udo and Hacer and the former owners' family. They even named one of their wines in their honor: Mayo\u011flu Terebinth. Our dear friend Umay \u00c7eviker has written a wonderful, award-winning article about this story.<\/p>\n

As far as we understand, one of Udo's principal reasons for choosing G\u00fczelyurt was the remarkably limited extent of human intervention in the surrounding landscape. Standing on the terrace of Ta\u015f Mahal and looking toward Mount Hasan, you see an expansive plain whose volcanic and tuff-rich soils give the region a distinctive character. Across an area of approximately 40 hectares, vines continue to grow on their own Vitis vinifera <\/em>roots and trunks. The region's unusual soil conditions are considered one of the factors limiting the spread of phylloxera. As a result, it is possible to encounter very old vines still growing on their original roots. In this respect, the area encompassing Gelveri's vineyards can be regarded as a living museum of grapevines. Indeed, members of the Franc de Pied association who visited Cappadocia in mid-2026 were deeply impressed by the region.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/h2>\n

Gelveri and Natural Wine<\/h2>\n

Gelveri uses exclusively clay vessels in its winemaking. These vessels vary in size and age. Udo is among those who understand Anatolia's place in the history of wine particularly well. I know from both his writings and our conversations that he closely follows the relevant literature. I believe this historical knowledge naturally led him toward natural winemaking. For thousands of years, wine was produced without the technological possibilities or standardized production methods available today. Fermentation was largely governed by the grapes themselves, the surrounding environment and naturally occurring microorganisms. Today's natural winemakers are bringing some of these fundamental principles back into focus. At the heart of this approach, in which nature's rules are decisive, lies the principle of \u201cadding nothing from outside.\u201d In other words, once the harvested grapes have been sorted, their transformation takes place under the conditions provided by their environment. For thousands of years, the industries supplying additives, including selected yeasts, which today constitute specialized fields within winemaking, simply did not exist. In principle, contemporary natural winemakers embrace a similar approach. What distinguishes Gelveri is its exclusive use of clay vessels throughout production, without introducing other materials such as stainless steel or wooden barrels.<\/p>\n

For wine to survive as a commodity in a free-market economy, consumers must be willing to buy it at the price offered. The wine sector's continuous expansion from the 1960s until 2020 created the conditions for an enormous industry to emerge. Naturally, the overwhelming majority of wines produced during this period belong to what we broadly describe as industrial winemaking.<\/p>\n

One of the fundamental differences between natural wine and standardized industrial production lies in the degree to which the winemaker chooses to intervene in the outcome. In industrial winemaking, predictability and consistency are important objectives. Natural winemaking, by contrast, involves a greater willingness to accept the variations produced by the grapes, the vintage and fermentation conditions. This is where the two approaches fundamentally diverge. Natural winemaking effectively says,\u201cWhatever nature gives us is enough.\"<\/em>In industrial winemaking, the human role is far more pronounced, with production managed to achieve a consistent flavor profile.<\/p>\n

\"\u00dcretim\"<\/h2>\n

Gelveri Wines<\/h2>\n

According to Udo and Hacer, Gelveri works primarily with indigenous grape varieties from its immediate surroundings. They process approximately ten grape varieties grown within a radius of 25 kilometers. All the vines from which they harvest are bush-trained, growing in their natural surroundings. Some varieties come from only a handful of surviving vines, and yields vary from year to year. Two grape varieties are regularly sourced from outside the region: Kalecik Karas\u0131 and Hasandede. K\u00f6setevek was added as an exception this year.<\/p>\n

Natural wine is a choice. And that choice also shapes how the resulting wines are evaluated. Let me explain what I mean. There are generally accepted standards for assessing wine, and various educational and professional qualifications are built around them. Yet even among experts who have received the same training, opinions about natural wine can be almost diametrically opposed. One of the movement's strongest advocates, Isabelle Legeron MW, has made an important contribution to the international recognition of low-intervention winemaking through the RAW WINE platform she founded. Experts such as Caroline Gilby MW, meanwhile, support environmentally responsible, low-intervention production while emphasizing that such an approach should not be used to excuse wine faults. At the center of this debate lies a fundamental question: At what point does a winemaker's decision not to intervene cease to be a virtue and become a matter of responsibility?<\/p>\n

One of the most frequently debated issues in natural wine concerns reductive characteristics. Aromas that some experts regard as clear faults may be received more tolerantly by natural wine enthusiasts. Of course, the degree of reduction and its effect on the wine's overall character are decisive. This is also one of the subjects our guests most frequently ask about when discussing Gelveri wines. To sum it up in a single sentence: what some wine professionals consider a fault, natural wine lovers may embrace as part of the experience.<\/p>\n

A Final Thought<\/h2>\n

We have previously written two articles about Gelveri, each highlighting different aspects of this remarkable enterprise. Udo's decision to make G\u00fczelyurt his home in the early 2000s, followed by Hacer \u00d6zkaya's involvement in the project, has given us a truly one-of-a-kind Turkish wine producer: Gelveri. That is precisely why we chose this title.<\/p>\n

May Gelveri's journey continue to flourish.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

G\u00fcnl\u00fck rutinimizin bir par\u00e7as\u0131 WAYANA\u2019n\u0131n mutfak al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fini yapmak. Bu al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fi genellikle mutfa\u011f\u0131n sorumlulu\u011funu ta\u015f\u0131yan Asuman \u015eef (e\u015fim) yapar ama o g\u00fcn bana kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Evden \u00e7\u0131kmadan listeye il\u00e2ve var m\u0131 diye WAYANA\u2019ya telefon etti\u011fimde, Sina (o\u011flum) erken bir rezervasyon oldu\u011funu ve kendisi yaln\u0131z oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in \u00f6nce d\u00fckk\u00e2na u\u011framam\u0131n daha iyi olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledi. Ben d\u00fckk\u00e2na vard\u0131ktan k\u0131sa…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":990984,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_joinchat":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[761],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-995567","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sarap-ureticileri"],"yoast_head":"\nGelveri \u015earaplar\u0131: Udo Hirsch ve Nat\u00fcrel \u015earap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k | WAYANA<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Gelveri \u015earaplar\u0131, Udo Hirsch ve Hacer \u00d6zkaya'n\u0131n G\u00fczelyurt'taki \u00f6zg\u00fcn \u00fcretim hik\u00e2yesi. 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