According to Greek mythology, wine was invented by Dionysus, the son of Zeus and Semele. Dionysus’ counterpart in ancient Rome was Bacchus (meaning "noisy or rowdy"). Already believed to have supernatural associations, wine became even more magical with its own deity. Almost 3,500 years later, Martin Luther (1483-1546), the founder of Protestantism, beautifully expressed wine's divine nature when he said, “Beer is made by men, wine by God.”
The word mythos in Greek, which translates to "myth" or "legend" in modern Turkish, can mean a tale or fable, but it is unreliable. Human accounts often contain additions, omissions, or even falsehoods. Herodotus dismissed myths as “unreliable hearsay,” while Plato described them as "false, absurd, and unrelated to truth." Thus, the story of Dionysus inventing wine cannot be true, as wine existed long before ancient Greece. The history of wine stretches back to 6,000–7,000 BCE, possibly even earlier, in the region spanning the Black Sea and Caspian Sea, including Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, and Eastern Anatolia. Another myth claims that the first person to cultivate a vine was the prophet Noah at the foot of Mount Ararat.
In the Phrygian kingdom (1200–700 BCE), which succeeded the Hittites, wine was a fundamental part of daily life. The Mediterranean diet of fish, bread, and olive oil also flourished alongside it. The Phrygians introduced wine to Greek colonies in Western Anatolia. Wine, along with wheat and olive oil, became the three pillars of ancient Greek cuisine. The Greek soldier and historian Thucydides (460–395 BCE) summed it up perfectly: “The peoples of the Mediterranean ceased to be barbarians when they learned to cultivate the olive and the vine.”
Though the Greeks did not discover wine, they democratized it, making it accessible to the public. The first sommelier and wine writer in history were also Greek. Initially, the Greeks used their feet to crush grapes, but they later contributed to wine production by inventing screw presses to increase efficiency. One of the earliest Greek wine presses was discovered in Palekastro, Crete, dating back to the Mycenaean period (1600–1100 BCE).
One of the early Anatolian grape varieties, Muscat, became known across Europe by the same name. Another variety, from Smyrna (modern-day İzmir), was mentioned in Homer’s (ca. 800 BCE) Iliad and Odyssey as the grape used for the wine called Pramnios Oinos. This wine, mixed with goat cheese, barley flour, and various herbs, was known as Kykeon, a drink consumed by warriors to become invincible.
Today, the grape known as Fokiano from the island of Icaria produces a distinctive, high-alcohol wine (TasteAtlas: Fokiano wine). Along with Pramnios, other wines from islands like Tenedos (Bozcaada), Lesbos (Midilli), and Chioswere highly regarded in ancient Greece.
Wine was central to banquets, festivals, and private gatherings, especially in symposiums—drinking sessions where men discussed philosophy, music, literature, and even sex, while reclining on couches. Women were only allowed to participate as entertainers, not as guests. Women were prohibited from drinking wine and were instead given a drink called passum, which was a type of must.
Synposium in Ancient Greek (Experience Culture, Gastronomy&More. Greece in Dept. www.greece-is.com
Wine cups in Symposium . Left to right: Kylix, Oinochoe ve Krater. https://cantinebarbera.it
In ancient Greece, wine was typically diluted with more than half water before drinking. Consuming undiluted wine was considered barbaric. This practice not only reduced the wine's alcohol content to around 4-5%, making it suitable for consumption throughout the day, but also served a practical purpose: in an era when water sources were often unhygienic, wine provided a safer drinking option due to its mild antiseptic properties.
Historically, Phoenicians and Greeks dominated the maritime wine trade. Both civilizations transported wine to their colonies via sea routes. Greek trade ships were primarily loaded with wine, demonstrating its importance in their commerce. The Phoenicians extended their trade network across North Africa, the Iberian Peninsula, and through Sardinia, Corsica, and Marseille. Meanwhile, the Greeks controlled trade routes along the Aegean and Marmara coasts, the Black Sea, and Italy, spreading their influence and products throughout these regions.
Naturally, the first question that comes to mind is how wine was transported aboard ships. The answer lies in the use of amphorae, specialized ceramic vessels with narrow necks and pointed bottoms. These pointed bases served a crucial role: the cargo holds of ships were filled with sand, and the amphorae were embedded in the sand to prevent them from shifting and breaking during the journey.
Another method involved placing the amphorae upright in the vessel's cargo holds, ensuring they fit snugly in the empty spaces between the ship’s structural elements. This helped keep them stable, minimizing the risk of breakage from movement at sea. These ingenious storage methods made long-distance trade possible, especially during rough sea conditions, and ensured that the wine arrived safely at its destination.
FROM ANTIQUITY TO THE PRESENT
Greek winemaking remained largely undeveloped until the 20th century. A significant reason for this stagnation was the Ottoman Empire’s conquest of Byzantine lands, starting with Constantinople in 1453 and continuing with the annexation of Athens in 1458, eventually encompassing all of Greece. Although the Ottoman administration allowed the Christian population to produce wine, the imposition of high taxes and various restrictions hindered the growth of winemaking until Greece gained independence in 1828.
Today, Greece boasts over 600 wineries and 11 wine regions. These regions stretch from Thrace and Macedonia in the north to Crete, Kefalonia, the Ionian Islands, and Rhodes, covering the entire country. Wine remains a popular beverage among Greeks, with per capita consumption reaching approximately 35 bottles per year. In contrast, Turkey’s per capita wine consumption is notably lower, falling below one bottle annually. This stark difference highlights cultural and historical divergences in wine consumption between the two countries.
Greece’s 11 Wine Regions and Key Grape Varieties
The 11 wine regions of Greece are: Thrace Macedonia Epirus Thessaly Attica Peloponnese Cyclades Islands Rhodes Kefalonia and Ionian Islands Limnos, Samos, and other Aegean Islands Crete A key advantage of Greek winemaking, compared to Turkey, is the presence of 28 Appellations of Origin (AO) within these regions, following the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) model. After Greece joined the EU in 1980, it adapted France’s Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) regulations. Today, Greece has 29 PDO wines, highlighting its commitment to quality winemaking.
Greek Grape Varieties
Greece is home to approximately 300 grape varieties, with around 100 used for wine production.
Key Red Grapes: Agiorgitiko Kotsifali Limnio Mandilaria Mavrodaphne Negoska Stavroto Krassato Xinomavro
Key White Grapes: Assyrtiko Malagousia Moschofilero Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains Robola Roditis Savatiano
Two Prominent Red Grapes
Agiorgitiko This grape, historically planted in Nemea (Peloponnese), holds symbolic significance due to the Nemean Gamesof antiquity. In mythology, Heracles (Hercules) drank this wine before slaying the Nemean lion, leading to its nickname "Hercules' Blood." With moderate acidity, body, and tannins,
Agiorgitiko offers fruity aromas of plum and raspberry, with spicy hints of black pepper. While often bottled as a varietal wine, it is sometimes blended with Cabernet Sauvignon.
Xinomavro; Yunanistan’ın en çok ekilen ikici üzümüdür. Kuzey Makedonya’nın ise 1 numaralı üzümüdür. Naoussa ve Amyntaio apelasyonlarının tamamı Xinomavro’ dur. Diğer bölgelerde şarap üreticileri Xinomavro ile Syrah, Merlot ve bazı diğer lokal üzümlerle kuapjlarını yapmaktadırlar. Bazı uzmanlar Xinomavro’yu Pinot Noir ve Nebbiola ile benzeştirir ancak yapılan DNA testleri aralarında bir ilişki olduğunu ortaya koymamıştır.
Xinomavro, yüksek asidite, gövde ve tanene sahip bir üzümdür ve yıllanma potansiyeli oldukça yüksektir. Kırmızı frambuaz, kurutulmuş erik, kiraz gibi meyvemsi aromalar ön plandadır. Kurutulmuş domates, yeşil zeytin gibi sebze notaları dikkat çekicidir.
Two Prominent Red Grapes
Agiorgitiko This grape, historically planted in Nemea (Peloponnese), holds symbolic significance due to the Nemean Gamesof antiquity. In mythology, Heracles (Hercules) drank this wine before slaying the Nemean lion, leading to its nickname "Hercules' Blood." With moderate acidity, body, and tannins, Agiorgitiko offers fruity aromas of plum and raspberry, with spicy hints of black pepper. While often bottled as a varietal wine, it is sometimes blended with Cabernet Sauvignon.
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Xinomavro The second most widely planted red grape in Greece, Xinomavro is the dominant variety in Macedonia, especially in the Naoussa and Amyntaio PDO regions. Known for its high acidity, body, and tannins, Xinomavro has great aging potential. It offers flavors of raspberry, dried plum, and cherry, along with savory notes like sun-dried tomato and green olive. While some compare it to Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, DNA tests reveal no genetic relation.
The Iconic White Grape: Assyrtiko CHATEAU NICO LAZARIDI
In April, we visited Drama, just 20-25 minutes from Kavala, where we were welcomed by the grand estate of Chateau Nico Lazaridi. This winery’s vineyards are nestled between the Falakro, Menoikio, and Pangeon mountains, covering a total area of 80 hectares.
With 37 years of history, Nico Lazaridi has been a pioneer in reviving Greek winemaking and in establishing Drama as a leading wine region. Today, the winery produces 1.5 million bottles annually and exports to 21 countries.
Art and Wine Integration
The winery’s founder, Nicos Lazaridis, sought to create a product that would reflect modern Greek identity. He curated works from prominent artists for the “Magic Mountain” art gallery, displaying them throughout the estate. These artworks also feature prominently on the wine labels and packaging, enhancing the identity of their wines. You can see the beautiful designs on the wine boxes in the picture we took after the tasting. This combination of art, landscape, and fine winemaking reflects the sophisticated vision that has allowed Nico Lazaridi to become a hallmark of Greek wine culture.
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Similar Practices in Turkey: Chamlıja and Chateau Kalpak
In Turkey, Chamlıja Winery stands out for its creative use of labels, incorporating unique artistic designs on their bottles. Similarly, Chateau Kalpak integrates artistic activities into its brand identity, blending the culture of art with winemaking in a way reminiscent of Nico Lazaridi. The Wines at Chateau Nico Lazaridi The winery produces a variety of wine styles, including white, rosé, red, sweet, and sparkling wines. Both international varieties and local Greek grapes are used in production, such as: International grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese Local varieties: Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Xinomavro, Mavroudi
The Wines at Chateau Nico Lazaridi
The winery produces a variety of wine styles, including white, rosé, red, sweet, and sparkling wines. Both international varieties and local Greek grapes are used in production, such as: International grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese Local varieties: Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Xinomavro, Mavroudi
Noteworthy Wines Solitaire Sparkling Wines These wines stood out with their elegant bottle designs, labels, and corks. Rosé blend: Grenache Rouge and Syrah White blend: Ugni Blanc and Muscat Both wines achieve a refreshing balance by complementing the residual sweetness with crisp acidity, making them ideal for hot summer days. Cavalieri Assyrtiko This wine offers a unique experience with D-Limonene aromas—a bright, citrusy scent—after aging for six months in barrels. The bouquet features honeysuckle and floral notes, further enriched by a hint of earthy minerality. Final Thoughts What makes us passionate about wine isn’t just the fact that it’s a delicious drink. The culture behind the wine is, in my opinion, the most intriguing "aroma" that engages our minds. What do you think?