The birth of wine begins in the vineyard—this is a reminder we often mention. But this doesn’t just signify the start of a process. The reflections in the glass, which are the results of the different paths taken in this process, are important. Since these are not easy characteristics to determine, they will always be topics that continue to engage us.

Before the journey of the grape, which starts in the vineyard, the terroir determines how the final product, the wine, will take shape. Let's just briefly touch on this broad topic by stating that terroir is the combination and synthesis of all the environmental conditions (geographic location, soil structure, rainfall and temperature, topography, and many other factors) where the vineyard is located.

The decision on which agricultural approach will be used in cultivating the land as a vineyard belongs to the producer. This decision will eventually be one of the distinguishing features on the product’s label. Two of these production techniques are the focus of this series. Let’s first look at organic farming and organic wine production, which are governed by rules and where the conditions are objectively monitored and certified by independent institutions.

The first step for enterprises intending to engage in organic viticulture is to determine whether their soil is suitable for organic farming. At this stage, it is assessed whether the previously cultivated agricultural land and the soil structure meet the criteria for organic farming. Many areas require preliminary work to make them suitable for organic farming before planting. To certify that the grape is organic, approval must be obtained from independent evaluation bodies. Organizations that issue certifications regularly inspect that no chemical pesticides are used in the vineyard to combat agricultural pests and that no fertilizers are used to increase yield. 

The restrictions on organic wine production are more lenient compared to practices in the vineyard. Measures aimed at protecting consumer health can be implemented during production, but these are not unlimited. For example, the use of sulfites during fermentation is permitted, but only up to 0.1 grams per liter for red wine and 0.15 grams for white wine.

Aside from the challenges created by the general framework of rules outlined above, enterprises engaged in organic farming and winemaking must also be prepared to settle for lower yields in terms of crop productivity. This is because organic farming does not allow industrial additives aimed at increasing yield, so alternative methods must be used.

As wine lovers, the question on all our minds is whether organic wine is better. The answer to this question cannot be as clear as we would like. Producers of organic wine limit their activities with a more labor-intensive production process. From this perspective, the meticulously applied rules at every stage of production certainly play an improving role in the production of quality wine. But being organic is not enough to make a wine exceptional. 

So why should we prefer organic wine? The answer to this question is entirely dependent on our personal values. It is a fact that the challenges and costs of organic production faced by the producer increase the likelihood of encountering a good product. Especially considering that the climate crisis has invited us all to be more conscious, we must also accept that organic wine is closer to meeting these expectations. So, do our guests at WAYANA order wine based on the criteria of organic production? Only a handful.

Next week, when we discuss biodynamic farming and wine, we will return to this topic.