April is when nature, having awakened in the earlier months, begins to dress the landscape in vibrant greens. It’s a time when the joy of life quietly rises within. At least, that’s how it feels for me—the one writing these lines.

It’s also a season that brings a special kind of energy to the world of wine. Spring is the perfect time to visit vineyards and producers. And in April 2025, one of those journeys took us to the highlands of Antalya—specifically to the town of Elmalı, home to Likya Winery.

Likya is a name that has graced our menus since 2015—first at BEPPE, and then continuously at WAYANA. This time, we visited them at the source. And we’re glad we did.

A Dream Takes Root

Likya Winery planted its first vines back in the 1990s, and today the Özkan family’s story perfectly reflects the familiar wine-world narrative of “a family devoted to the land.”

Led by elder brother Burak Özkan and joined by his brother Doruk, the family pursued a vision:

to offer the millions of visitors who come to Antalya wines made from the region’s very own terroir.

A Closer Look at Elmalı

Elmalı is located in the Antalya province, northwest of the city center, sitting at around 1,100 meters above sea level. For locals, it represents the traditional Turkish practice of escaping the heat by “heading to the highlands” during the summer months. While our visit focused on vineyards and wine, one can’t help but notice the greenhouses dominating the landscape. Elmalı is one of Turkey’s largest tomato producers.

The town is also home to the Elmalı Hoard—a priceless collection of ancient silver coins unearthed during illegal excavations in 1984. Once smuggled abroad, the hoard was eventually returned to Turkey after years of legal effort, and now resides in Antalya’s museum collections.

The Scale That Never Froze

When we asked Burak Özkan how they chose the site for Likya’s vineyards and winery, he shared a story that began with an old truck scale sitting on one of the potential plots.

Truck scales are common in Elmalı, used for agricultural commerce. But when negotiations for the land purchase began, the question came up: why was there a scale here too, when so many already existed?

“Because all the others freeze in winter,” the landowner said. “This one works year-round. When the others fail, people come here.” Burak calls this his “moment of realization.” “That was when I understood what this land could mean for viticulture.”Deep-Rooted Vines Terroir begins beneath your feet. And the vine, with its stubborn yet graceful nature, doesn’t chase after fertile lands. Instead, it thrives when its roots are allowed to go deep—shaped by the geology that cradles it. At Likya, both the vineyards and winery share the same site. During expansion work, we captured a photo of the soil profile, clearly showing a layer of limestone stretching beneath the surface. This is one of the soil types most favored by grapevines.

Boğazkere: 200 Days to Maturity

Boğazkere is one of Turkey’s most distinctive grapes. Originally from Diyarbakır, it’s known for its assertive tannins and bold character. But here in Elmalı, it tells a different story. When we asked how Boğazkere performs in Elmalı’s conditions, Burak Özkan simply said: “It takes 200 days for our Boğazkere to ripen.” At WAYANA, we serve Boğazkere wines from Diyarbakır, Thrace, Denizli, Muğla, and Elmalı. We encourage you to taste the differences that terroir—and time—can make. Elmalı is unmistakably a late-ripening region. The harvest can stretch all the way into November. Combined with significant diurnal temperature variations, this creates ideal conditions for slow ripening and flavor development.

These factors are known to enhance a grape’s chemical complexity and aromatic profile—and you can experience those qualities directly in the wines produced here.

Does Elmalı Have a Winemaking History?

Elmalı’yla ilgili kayıtlarda Osmanlı döneminde şarapçılıkla ilgili bir faaliyet bilgisine rastlanmıyor. Ama bölgede yaşayan gayr-ı müslim azınlığın Elmalı’ya bağlı Bağköy’de yerleşik olduğunu yine kayıtlar arasında görebiliyoruz. Bu bilgiyi, Likya Şarapları’nın satın aldığı arazilerin eski adları arasında Manastır Bağı olmasıyla da ilişkilendirdiğimizde, aslında kayıtlarda yer aldığını görmesek bile, bölgede bir bağcılık geçmişi olduğunu çıkarsamak yanlış olmaz.

There’s no documented winemaking activity from Elmalı during the Ottoman era. However, we do know that non-Muslim communities once lived in nearby Bağköy. Some of Likya’s current vineyards sit on land historically known as “Monastery Vineyard.” This suggests a viticultural presence, even if not formally recorded.

Go back even further, and the evidence becomes stronger. Artifacts from 2,000–3,000 years ago, now displayed in the small but captivating Elmalı Museum, include ceramic cups and pitchers—likely used in both ceremonial and daily contexts for wine. In addition, surface surveys have located the remains of ancient wine production facilities scattered across the Elmalı plain. The land, it seems, has long held the memory of the vine.

Final Word

We didn’t set out to write a blog series. But after returning from our visit to Likya Winery, we realized the insights we gathered deserved to be shared—and that one post wouldn’t be enough.

So we begin this series with Elmalı, a terroir that has remained in the shadows for far too long.

Thanks to the Özkan family’s determination to integrate local wines into Antalya’s culinary culture, Elmalı is gaining recognition in the wine world. Whether this will remain an isolated story or inspire others to follow remains to be seen.

But one thing is certain: Elmalı’s long-overlooked potential is now part of the conversation. We hope this piece sparks further research into the region’s winemaking legacy. Perhaps this very series will become a starting point for a broader revival. And if that’s the case— we think it’s worth raising a glass.