Kayra is the wine brand developed by MEY-Diageo for the Turkish market after TEKEL’s privatization in 2004. Thanks to its production strength and distribution power, Kayra holds a prominent place in the local wine scene. Among its various ranges, the one that has truly won our hearts deserves a closer look. And why now, you might ask? Because on Tuesday, May 27, a special tasting was held for the fourth wine in this series—Gamay (which the French charmingly pronounce as “Ga-MEH”). It was the perfect opportunity to revisit the earlier wines and welcome the latest addition.

Experimental Series: A Closer Look

The name says it all. This is Kayra’s playground—an institutional space where the professional team can explore ideas without the usual commercial pressures. It’s a platform that encourages experimentation, not dictated by market expectations but guided by curiosity and passion.

It’s one thing for a company to have the financial capacity to support such a vision, but it’s quite another to have leaders who find it meaningful to allocate resources to such initiatives. The fact that Kayra has supported this series for years—and still does—is something all of us who care about wine can genuinely applaud.

The first wine in the series was the distinctively crafted Ambrosia. Sadly, by the time WAYANA opened its doors, Ambrosia had already sold out—we never even got the chance to put it on our list. Then came the Old Vine Sémillon, which we’ve proudly been serving ever since. One of the most delightful surprises was the natural version of Karkuş (a grape we already knew from Shiluh and Midin) released as "Old Vine Karkuş Natural," now a staple of our natural wine menu—which, by the way, has grown to nearly 60 labels.

Most recently, we had the pleasure of tasting the fourth wine in the series—Gamay. Once distribution begins,

"Kayra Old Vine Gamay" will surely find its way onto our menu.

Ambrosia

We were already familiar with the Alpagut Öküzgözü in Kayra's Versus series—one we’ve known and served for years. So we knew the Alpagut vineyards well. Ambrosia was made with Öküzgözü grapes from these very vineyards, but it wasn’t their first attempt—two prior trials hadn’t succeeded.

For Ambrosia, they used grape clusters left to dry on the vine. In a specific part of the vineyard, the shoots were deliberately broken to stop the flow of nutrients to the clusters. These grapes stayed on the vine for nearly a month before harvest. In that sense, the method echoes Italy’s Amarone, where grapes are also dried before fermentation. Aged for 17 months in old oak barrels, Ambrosia clocked in at just over 16% ABV. The use of neutral barrels ensured the oak didn’t overpower the wine.

The name “Ambrosia” is inherited from Greek mythology—it refers to the food of the gods, not meant for mere mortals. It appears frequently in foundational Western texts like the Iliad and the Odyssey.

There’s only one vintage of Ambrosia. Whether this was an intentional “let it be remembered this way” gesture, we don’t know. But at WAYANA, we’re hopeful for more.

A Vineyard Story: Kayra Old Vine Sémillon

The grapes for Kayra’s Sémillon come from vineyards in Güzelköy, Tekirdağ. In wine literature, "old vine" refers to vines over 35 years of age. The ones producing this wine? Nearly twice that—between 65 and 70 years old.

Sémillon was introduced to Turkey during the early years of the Republic as part of an agricultural development strategy, aided by foreign experts. For many years, it was widely grown, but eventually lost favor, and vineyards were repurposed. Kayra took over one of the few that survived this transformation and brought it under its own care. The wine we’re drinking today is born of that heritage.

The process is worth noting. The grapes are pressed without disturbing their floral skins. The initial skin contact continues until fermentation reaches 5% alcohol, extracting all desired aromas. Then, yeast is added to initiate the second stage of fermentation, which lasts over a month.

After fermentation, part of the wine is transferred to stainless steel, part to oak barrels. Only the barrel portion undergoes malolactic fermentation, giving the final wine a rounded, creamy texture and a fuller body.

Though it still bears the “experimental” label, Old Vine Sémillon has clearly proven itself over multiple vintages.

Endemic Power: Kayra Old Vine Karkuş Natural

It wouldn’t be right to mention this wine without also acknowledging another producer. Midin Winery—a Syriac winemaker—has long worked with the Karkuş grape. Despite the country’s many ups and downs, Karkuş is one of the endemic varieties that has survived. For years, it’s been a beloved entry on our WAYANA menu under the Midin label. With Kayra’s version, we see not only a new interpretation but also the influence of a major player like MEY/Diageo backing such a rare variety. The Kayra team took a considerable risk by opting for spontaneous fermentation—a hallmark of natural winemaking. We can imagine the suspense within the team as they waited, watched, and hoped.

Karkuş grows in extremely harsh conditions. When we talk about searing heat in the region, we mean temperatures nearing 50°C. What keeps the grapes alive in such heat? Pruning techniques that let the leaves shield the fruit from direct sun.

Each wine expresses its own truth. The Midin and Kayra Karkuş wines are like siblings—clearly related, clearly distinct.

A NEW GAMAY INTERPRETATION: KAYRA OLD VINE GAMAY

We’ve only had a first taste, so we’ll reserve our full judgment—but this Gamay is no ordinary Gamay. Typically, Gamay is fresh, light, and fruity, rarely surprising. Not this one. Made from 45-year-old vines, this version offers more structure, more tannin, and a depth we don’t usually associate with the grape.

Yeast was added in the final stage of fermentation, giving the wine a distinctly different character—same grape, different soul. We hope it joins the WAYANA menu soon.

PRAISE FOR THE WINES, BUT MOSTLY FOR THE TEAM

Turkey isn’t an easy place for experimental work—not just because of financial challenges, but due to mindset. As the Turkish writer Çetin Altan once recalled: “I asked my grandmother why doors open sideways instead of upward. Her answer captured the country perfectly: ‘Don’t make trouble.’”

Raised on “don’t make trouble,” it’s hard for us to imagine—let alone attempt—innovation. That’s why we owe gratitude not only to MEY/Diageo for offering this space, but to the people who turned it into something meaningful.

So thank you—especially to Murat Ünver and Özge Kaymaz, the production team, and IWSA and Ayça Budak, who brought these wines to our glasses.

Thanks to you, our spirits are lifted. Let’s not lose hope.