Bazen bir üzüm çeşidinin hikâyesi, yalnızca bağda değil, arşivlerde, laboratuvarlarda ve e-posta kutularında da yazılır. Kolorko’nun Furmint olan ilişkisinin hikâyesi de tam olarak böyle ilerledi. Güney Trakya’da neredeyse unutulmuş bir yerel çeşit olarak bilinen Kolorko, bugün artık yalnızca yerel bir üzüm adı değil; uluslararası bağcılık literatürüyle doğrudan bağ kuran canlı bir örnek olarak karşımızda duruyor.
The turning point in this story came through DNA analysis and the scientific correspondence that followed.
Our First Encounters with Kolorko and Furmint
Şarap servisi yapmaya başladığımız ilk yıllarda Melen Şarapları’ndan aldığımız şaraplardan birisi Kolorko üzümündendi. Ancak şarabın devamı konusunda endişeli olduklarını, üzümü tedarik etmelerinde sıkıntı olduğunu söylemişlerdi. Nitekim ilerleyen yıllarda Paşaeli’nin ürettiği Kolorko şarabını bulmamız mümkün olmadı.
Listening to Seyit Karagözoğlu, who devoted himself to bringing the grape back to life, helped us understand the scale of effort and sacrifice involved. Meanwhile, at Paşaeli’s most recent trade tasting, the Hungarian Furmint wines we tasted became our clear favorites among the whites. Learning only later that Furmint and Kolorko might be related came as a real surprise.
Let us briefly revisit the Kolorko–Furmint connection as it was publicly announced on February 9, 2026.
A Grape on the Edge of Disappearance
For many years, Kolorko survived in small plots in villages south of Tekirdağ, mostly through old vines. After the 1960s, its presence steadily declined and it came close to extinction. Its absence from official grape registries left its origin and identity uncertain. Was it a unique variety, or simply a local name for another grape? No one could say for sure.
A decisive step came in 2005, when Paşaeli founder Seyit Karagözoğlu launched a rescue project. Old living vines were identified in villages between Uçmakdere and Şarköy, cuttings were collected, and a new vineyard was established in Hoşköy. Kolorko took root again in lime-rich, nutrient-poor soils exposed to Marmara Sea winds.
In 2009, the first single-varietal production yielded only 276 bottles. It was small in volume, but large in meaning.
First Tastings and Early Signals
Early Kolorko examples drew the attention of international tasters. Herbal and citrus-driven aromatics, a marked mineral structure, full texture, and long finish stood out. It became clear that this was not merely a “local curiosity,” but a grape with real character and serious white wine potential.
Yet the core question remained: who was Kolorko, really?
The only reliable path to an answer was DNA profiling.
DNA Testing and a Striking Result
DNA analyses conducted on Kolorko leaf samples produced an unexpected result. The genetic profile matched exactly with Furmint, the famous grape of Hungary’s Tokaj region. The analysis was repeated with different samples, and the result did not change.
Scientifically speaking, the picture was clear: Kolorko and Furmint were the same variety.
This finding raised a new question. How had Furmint, known as the emblematic grape of Tokaj, come to exist in Thrace under the name Kolorko?
A Possible Historical Link
History enters the scene here. In the early 18th century, Hungarian independence leader Ferenc II Rákóczi took refuge in Ottoman lands after defeat and lived in exile in Tekirdağ for many years. He was accompanied by a sizeable Hungarian community of nobles and followers. The region hosted a notable Hungarian settlement during that period.
There is no direct document proving that vine cuttings were transported from Tokaj to Thrace. However, such transfers are common throughout viticultural history. Migrating communities are known to carry agricultural plant material with them. For this reason, the arrival of Furmint in Thrace during this period is considered a strong historical possibility.
Correspondence with Vouillamoz: Science Applies the Brakes
The Kolorko–Furmint match was identified by José Vouillamoz, one of the most respected figures in grape genetics. The findings were apparently considered significant enough that the researchers waited for the right moment to announce them. The report was presented at a session held on the opening day of the 2026 Paris Wine Show, where Turkey participated with twelve producers, and was made publicly accessible the same day via JancisRobinson.com.
When we heard the news, our excitement was immediate and intense. Once the first wave of adrenaline passed, a question emerged:
Acaba Kolorko Furmint’in atası olabilir miydi?
Historical research generally shows that vine diffusion moved from east to west. Even if the two grapes appear genetically identical, could the deeper origin lie in Thrace? We sent our questions to José Vouillamoz.
Vouillamoz’un yanıtı bilimsel bir titizlik örneğiydi. Bu olasılığı tamamen dışlamadığını, ancak mevcut verilerin en rasyonel yorumunun ters yönü işaret ettiğini belirtti.
His reasoning was clear:
Tokaj bölgesinde Furmint yüksek biyolojik çeşitlilik gösteriyor. Çok sayıda klon ve varyant tanımlanmış durumda. Bu, genellikle bir üzümün köken merkezinin göstergesi olarak kabul edilir. Kolorko tarafında ise böyle bir çeşitlilik gözlenmiyor.
Bilimsel literatürde Furmint’in ebeveyn ilişkileri ve genetik akrabaları Macaristan ve çevre bölgelerle bağlantılı görünüyor. Bu akraba çeşitlerinin Trakya’da tarihsel kaydı bulunmuyor.
En eski yazılı Furmint kayıtları 17. Yüzyıla uzanırken, Kolorko adı çok daha geç dönem belgelerinde ortaya çıkıyor.
Within this framework, Vouillamoz concluded that the stronger interpretation of current evidence supports a Tokaj origin for Furmint, with Kolorko being the local Thracian name.
The language of science is firm here: possibilities can be discussed, but conclusions must be ranked by the weight of evidence.
Same Grape, Different Wines
Despite the genetic match, wines made from Kolorko and Tokaj Furmint do not show identical character. There are two main reasons.
First, terroir differences. The Şarköy–Tekirdağ corridor lies along the Marmara coast, with a milder climate and strong maritime influence. Soils are largely calcareous. Tokaj, by contrast, has a continental climate and is known for its volcanic soils. Climate and soil directly affect the grape’s chemical composition and aromatic profile.
Second, intra-vineyard mutations resulting from long geographic separation. The same grape grown in different regions over centuries can develop small genetic variations. These may influence berry structure, yield behavior, and aroma compounds. For this reason, the possibility of “same variety, different biotypes” remains scientifically plausible for Kolorko and Furmint.
Today and Beyond
Bugün Kolorko adıyla üretim yapan iki Türk üretici var: Paşaeli ve Melen. Üretilen örnekler genellikle sek beyaz stilinde, paslanmaz çelik fermantasyonlu ve kısa süreli tortu temaslı. Açık altın renk, mineral ve baharat çağrışımları, balmumu ve narenciye kabuğu notaları, diri asidite ve dolgun gövde ortak özellikler arasında.
Kolorko’nun kimliğinin netleşmesi onu sıradanlaştırmadı. Aksine, bağcılık tarihine bağlanan daha geniş bir hikâyenin parçası haline geldi. Tokaj ile Trakya arasında kurulan ve üç yüzyılı aşan bir bağ, bugün kadehlerimizde farklı kimlikleriyle yan yana yer alabiliyor.
Perhaps most importantly, more than a thousand locally recorded grape varieties still exist in these lands. Each may hold a similar story. Some are waiting for a laboratory result, some for a devoted grower, and some simply for the right question.
Bu yazımızla ortak noktası olan diğer yazılarımız da ilginizi çekebilir. Üzerlerine tıklayarak ulaşabilirsiniz.
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