A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME WITH KAVAKLIDERE PRESTIGE
We recently had the opportunity to attend a vertical tasting event organized by Kavaklıdere, hosted for wine industry professionals and narrated by the winery’s production team. In the specialized tastings we participate in as the WAYANA team — focusing on selecting wines for our menu — we have always been deeply impressed by Yasemin Taşlıca, Kavaklıdere Wines’ Marketing Manager. Thanks to her long-standing experience under the Kavaklıdere roof, she doesn’t simply guide us through tastings; she narrates the journeys hidden behind each wine. These tastings hold great significance for us.
Since 1929, Kavaklıdere Wines has been one of the most prominent players in the Turkish wine industry — and, in many ways, perhaps the foremost. It should come as no surprise that many professionals who hold key positions in Turkey’s wine production, marketing, and sales channels have, at some point in their careers, had a stint at Kavaklıdere, whether brief or extended. In a country where wine often treads a controversial path, one can only imagine the struggles involved in securing such a position.
After brief opening speeches by Cevza Başman and Yasemin Taşlıca, the stage was handed over to two of Kavaklıdere’s winemakers. Sanem Karadeniz and Faruk Kaya, both deeply passionate about their craft, shared the tremendous expertise behind the distinctive character of these wines, speaking with the humility of true professionals. Capturing their insights on paper is, in a sense, recording a moment in time. We hope these reflections will also resonate with fellow wine enthusiasts.
PART ONE: KAVAKLIDERE PRESTIGE KALECİKKARASI 2009 – 2011 – 2019 – 2021
Kalecikkarası takes its name from the Kalecik district of Ankara and is one of the grape varieties in Turkey that was saved from near extinction — a fate shared by many other local varietals. Kavaklıdere played a pivotal role in this grape’s revival. Upon learning about a project conducted by Ankara University’s Faculty of Agriculture aimed at rescuing Kalecikkarası, Kavaklıdere lent its own resources to the effort. In truth, if we are able to enjoy Kalecikkarası today, we owe it to this coordinated struggle waged all those years ago.
Our winemakers presented maps showing the distribution of Kavaklıdere’s Kalecikkarası vineyards and described the specific regions where the Prestige series wines are cultivated, emphasizing the shifts observed there — particularly under the influence of changing climatic conditions.
As the presentations progressed, we gained a clearer understanding of the severe decline taking place in our country’s viticultural landscape — and, to be honest, began to feel the weight of it all.
We know that virtually every grape variety has its own unique sensitivities at every stage, from the vineyard through to production. Listening to experts describe how closely Kalecikkarası must be monitored — and how even a single day’s delay can yield serious consequences — was sobering. Nature’s once-generous temperament has changed; both rainfall and underground water reserves are dwindling, with significant impacts on harvest yields.
During the talk, the technical team emphasized the importance of micro-oxygenation (the controlled, gradual introduction of oxygen into wine, which aids in its aromatic evolution and texture). They also discussed how this process interacts with cork, and highlighted differences between wines aged in magnum bottles (1.5 liters) versus standard bottles (0.75 liters).
Among the four vintages of Prestige Kalecikkarası we tasted, the 2009 vintage had clearly passed its prime. Its fruit aromas had evolved into stewed and jammy fruit notes. In contrast, the 2011 vintage exemplified the graceful maturation we expect from Kalecikkarası — almost whispering, “Drink me before it’s too late.”
The 2019 vintage stood out with aromas of red fruits intertwined with delicate spice notes on the nose. On the palate, it showcased fine acidity and silky tannins, emerging as one of the most balanced examples in the series — dignified yet vibrant.
Our speakers explained that the impact of climate change has become even harsher, particularly since 2020.
We often tend to think of climate change as merely rising temperatures. Yet the real issue lies in extreme weather events. Conversations with elderly villagers in the vineyard regions revealed that this year’s devastating frost was unprecedented in their lifetimes.
Terroir is indeed a concept that encompasses climate. Traditionally, climate has been viewed as a stable factor, observable over long periods. But now, we see climate taking on a far more aggressive and volatile personality. This new face of climate change reduces not only yields but also the overall quality of grapes.
PART TWO: KAVAKLIDERE PRESTIGE BOĞAZKERE 2015 – 2018 – 2019 – 2022
After a short break, we turned to a tasting dedicated to Boğazkere. The picture painted by Karadeniz and Kaya was even more poignant for this grape. Born in Diyarbakır, Boğazkere is affected not only by climate change but also by the region’s social and political developments.
In the Diyarbakır region, vineyards are typically small — often only 4 to 6 dönüms (about 0.4 to 0.6 hectares). As vineyard owners grow older, it becomes easier for them to quietly abandon their fields. Many vineyards, unable to generate sufficient income to sustain family livelihoods, are left neglected. Especially with younger generations migrating from rural areas to cities and showing little interest in farming, the pace of abandonment is accelerating. And with every vineyard left behind, it feels as though another branch is severed from our cultural roots — a heartbreak we feel deeply. Over the years, Boğazkere production has fallen from 4,000 tons to just 1,700 tons — and the Kavaklıdere team sadly predicts that this decline will continue.
Boğazkere is one of our country’s most distinctive grape varieties. Recent DNA analyses have revealed its significant kinship with wild grapevines (Vitis Vinifera Sylvestris). Boğazkere produces wines that have always been favorites among enthusiasts who appreciate powerful, structured wines. The Prestige series Boğazkere wines did not disappoint us once again. Each of the first three wines we tasted distinguished itself with subtle nuances, all leaving us thoroughly satisfied. The fourth wine had not yet been bottled — it was brought directly from the tank for us to taste and heralded a bright future. Given that it will rest for about another year after bottling, it’s likely to appear on our 2026 menus.
The production team explained how the maceration periods (the soaking of grape skins in the juice) and methods for Kalecikkarası and Boğazkere differ significantly. We learned how the structural differences between these two grapes become particularly evident when the tanks are opened at the end of fermentation. Faruk Kaya vividly described the sheer physical effort required to remove the almost rock-hard skins of Boğazkere from the tanks.
We had noticed nine empty glasses placed before us and, despite trying to coax Yasemin Taşlıca for clues, we hadn’t managed to discover the identity of the surprise wine. In the end, they brought out a 2004 vintage Prestige Boğazkere. It was impossible not to respect this wine, which so beautifully captured Boğazkere’s strength and character.
If you’re a lover of Boğazkere, we highly recommend trying it during your next visit to WAYANA. We managed to persuade them to let us have a few bottles from what remains of this precious vintage.
A FINAL WORD
Naturally, much more was discussed during this tasting than what we’ve summarized here. But we wanted to share the most significant highlights with you. One detail we haven’t yet mentioned is that the vines yielding grapes for these wines grow on their own original Vitis Vinifera roots. Following the phylloxera epidemic, the vast majority of European vineyards were forced to graft wine grape varieties onto American rootstocks that were resistant to the pest. The fact that many of our native grape varieties in Turkey still grow on their own Vitis Vinifera roots is one of our greatest strokes of luck.
The tasting organized by Kavaklıdere was more than just an exercise in drinking wine; it was an experience of revisiting our memory, our land, and our future.
We extend our thanks to Sanem Karadeniz and Faruk Kaya for generously sharing their knowledge and to Yasemin Taşlıca for ensuring that the entire event ran seamlessly.
