For our second article on the Elmalı terroir, we focus on the forgotten grapes that have recently come back into the spotlight in the region. When we look at the wines made from new grape varieties that have gained recognition in the wine world over the past ten years, we see that a significant number originate from the Toros region, produced by Likya Wines. Moreover, as we move eastward from Elmalı, other examples grown on the Toros highlands, now integral parts of wine menus, also reveal themselves. Is the magic hidden within the Toros Mountains themselves? Or is it the result of the dedicated search to rediscover these grapes? In this article, we will explore the information available to us in pursuit of this answer.
The (For Now) Sole Producer in the Elmalı Terroir: Likya Wines
In a previous blog post, we discussed at length the unique terroir identity of Elmalı, analyzing its soil structure, climatic characteristics, and historical background. About thirty years ago, the Özkan Family recognized Elmalı’s potential. With Burak Özkan leading the way, they embarked on a long journey and founded Likya Wines. In this article, rather than focusing on the producer, we will emphasize the process and experiences involved in reviving forgotten grapes. Since the detection, propagation, and documentation of these grapes have all been undertaken by Likya Wines, the story revolves around Likya’s vineyards and production facility.
Likya Wines' Vineyards
Likya produces about 40 different wines across various segments, all made exclusively from their own vineyards. Their vineyard area spans over 600 decares. About one-third of this area, roughly 200 decares, is dedicated to experimental grape cultivation and is not used for commercial production. Using such a large area essentially as a laboratory reflects how deeply Likya values these efforts. In simple terms, 400 decares of commercial vineyard work tirelessly to support the growth, development, and nurturing of the other 200 decares — much like how we all strive for the growth of our own children.
The Rise of Forgotten Grapes
Looking back today, it might seem as if Likya’s sole mission was to find lost grapes, but the journey was not that straightforward. However, Likya was adept at interpreting the clues they encountered and realized that these forgotten grapes could act as a lever, helping them differentiate and position themselves uniquely within the wine community. The first grape they stumbled upon during this process was Acıkara, which wine enthusiasts now know well.
When you consider that Burak Özkan spent almost ten years rehabilitating this ancient variety, it becomes clear that reviving a grape can take nearly as long as raising a human child. Acıkara’s revival became a turning point for Likya. Realizing that Acıkara couldn’t be the only forgotten grape, they started tracing more hidden gems in their region. Thanks to this long journey, we have been given the chance to reconnect with the grapes that this land once gifted us but that we had forgotten over time.
Which Grapes Were Rediscovered?
Once the number of forgotten grapes reached a notable level, Likya Wines created a new series called ARKEO. There are currently six wines in this series, five of which come from revived local grapes:
- Adjikara
- Fersun
- Arya Özkan
- Likya Ateşi
- Likya Işığı
Among these, only Likya Işığı is a white wine; the others are reds. The sixth wine in the series is made from the Merzifon Karası grape, whose revival we owe to Tayyar Öztürk. (We have covered the story of Merzifon Karası in another blog post for those interested.)
Beyond the ARKEO series, two other rediscovered grapes are used in different Likya collections:
- Çalıbağ (diğer adıyla Margaz)
- Foxtail
Grapes Still Under Revival
During our visit, we also had the chance to taste new grapes undergoing refinement, though not yet ready for commercial production. These developing varieties include:
- Tesadüf
- Likya Bilgesi
- Vera Özkan
- Likya Aşkına
- Pisidyalı
- Alitarık
Efforts continue for other grape varieties that currently do not meet the required standards for winemaking. Only time will tell how they will eventually be utilized.
Naming the Grapes
The names of rediscovered grapes are recorded using the local terms originally associated with them. Most of the genetic analysis for these new varieties is conducted at Ankara University’s Institute of Biotechnology, with a smaller portion handled by a private laboratory. If a grape is found to be genetically unique compared to other recorded Turkish varieties, it is then officially named and registered, under the supervision of Ankara University.
The next step would be conducting international genetic comparisons to see if these grapes have genetic siblings in other parts of the world. If such relatives are found, then the local and new names will be used together. However, this stage has not yet been reached.
Are the Toros Mountains Exceptionally Rich in Grape Diversity?
This is a question that experts should answer. Based on the current data, we can only speculate. Turkey has 1,459 officially recorded grape varieties. After excluding synonyms (different names for the same grape), this number drops to around 850.
Out of these, 78 varieties used for winemaking were compiled in WAYANA’s e-book "Turkey’s Endemic Grapes and Wines." None of the grapes currently undergoing revival, mentioned above, are included yet. Once their commercial wines are released, we will update the list, increasing the total to 84. Seeing that 13 of these varieties come from Likya Wines naturally raises questions about the richness of the Toros Mountains. Additionally, grapes like Göküzüm and Patkara, grown in the Central Toros region, further increase the count.
However, similar richness is also seen in places like Cappadocia and Hüyük. Thus, one wonders: is it the land itself or the passion and dedication of those who seek these grapes that brings them to light?
Could passionate new adventurers uncover grape varieties as rich and abundant in other regions as they have in the Toros Mountains?
The greatest news for us, who cherish the grapes of these lands, would be the emergence of such new knights, helping us discover more forgotten varieties from different regions.
Thank You
Our journey with Burak spans almost 10 years. After we started serving wine in our own establishment, we were enchanted by the magic of wine. Throughout our years in the wine world, Likya Wines has been one of the most significant contributors to our excitement. Thanks to Likya, the green and black grapes we discovered have brought both flavor and zest to our lives. We sincerely hope that all their hard work receives the appreciation it truly deserves.
