In April 2025, during our visit to Likya’s Elmalı estate, we had the chance to taste, together with Burak Özkan, some of their yet-unfinished new series of wines. Even though they were still in the making, each one already showed character and promise. Two questions had been on our minds ever since that visit:

• By the time July (2025) came and bottling began, would we encounter surprising differences in the final tastings?
• The DNA analyses conducted in Ankara had largely been completed, compared against entries in the national grape bank. But the Swiss results were still pending, expected to be finalized before bottling. What would those results reveal?

After our visit, Burak and I exchanged updates from time to time but had not spoken directly again—until the first days of August, when my phone rang. Burak, brimming with excitement, told me the Swiss results had finally arrived. The full picture of the grapes’ identities was now complete. He rushed through the findings so eagerly that I hardly had the chance to take notes before the call ended. Excitement is contagious, and I found myself just as thrilled as he was. Burak asked me not to share the news until he made it public himself. That was only fair, so I kept my word—and this piece was written with the intention of publishing only after his announcement.

A SHORT REMINDER

The idea of establishing Likya Wines dates back about thirty years. The Özkan family, originally from Antalya, were not farmers by tradition. Their story didn’t begin with inheriting vineyards. Instead, it began when Burak Özkan chose winemaking as his life’s work. Intuition guided many of the early decisions. Later, when his brother Doruk joined and naturally took charge of marketing and sales, this partnership became a crucial factor in the company’s growth. 

Elmalı, where Likya is based, has a viticultural past—place names in the region still bear witness to it. But after the population exchange of the early 20th century, winemaking in the area came to a halt. Sitting at 1,100 meters above sea level, with snowy, cold winters, Elmalı is far removed from the “sun and sea” image most people associate with Antalya. 

In the 1990s, the Özkan family began acquiring vineyards, becoming the region’s first—and still its only—winemaking entrepreneurs. From there, the story grew step by step. It was during this time that Burak began to pay close attention to Anatolia’s forgotten grapes. Likya’s first rediscovery, the Acıkara grape, came to light thanks to a local villager who still knew of its existence, and to Burak’s persistence in pursuing and reviving it over many years.

Since then, every lead has been followed, sometimes ending in disappointment, but more often leading to remarkable discoveries. Looking at the results today, it’s clear the effort was worth it.

THE GRAPES REVIVED BY LIKYA

When Likya first invested in vineyards, the aim was likely quite different from what it became. I remember telling Burak that the richness of what they had achieved now deserved to be recorded in book form, as part of their institutional memory. He agreed. With more than thirty years behind them and a collection of revived grapes that keeps growing, the time has clearly come.

It began with Acıkara and has since expanded into a series of varieties that we now have the privilege to taste. Here is the list of grapes revived or reintroduced by Likya, alongside the DNA findings that confirmed their identities. They fall into three groups: 

1. Original grapes identified and recorded by Likya Wines:

• Acıkara: Unique DNA; name traditionally used in the region.
• ARYA ÖZKAN: Unique DNA — named by Likya, now officially recorded.
• FERSUN: Unique DNA — named after the village where it was found, now officially recorded.
• LIKYA ATEŞI: Unique DNA — named by Likya, now officially recorded.
• LIKYA IŞIĞI: Unique DNA — named by Likya, now officially recorded.
• PISIDYALI: Unique DNA — named by Likya, now officially recorded.
• TESADUF: Unique DNA — named by Likya, now officially recorded.
• VERA ÖZKAN: Unique DNA — named by Likya, now officially recorded.
• YAPIK: Unique DNA — found as a single surviving vine, now officially recorded. About three years are needed before a commercial wine can be made.

2. Table grapes vinified for the first time by Likya Wines:

• BÜZGÜLÜ: DNA recorded as a table grape in Swiss grape banks; vinified for the first time by Likya.
• ÇALIBAĞ – MAZGAL: Known locally under two names; vinified for the first time by Likya.
• TİLKİ KUYRUĞU: Known in the region; vinified for the first time by Likya.

3. Grapes re-identified through DNA analysis:

• ALTINCI HIS – GERME SIYAHI: Originally named Altıncı His by Likya; DNA analysis revealed that it is actually Germe Sıyahı. From now on, the grape will be called GERME SIYAHI, while the wine will continue under the name ALTINCI HIS.
• ALITARIK – SKYLOKLIMA: Originally named AliTarık by Likya; DNA analysis revealed it as Skyloklima. From now on, the grape will be called SKYLOKLIMA, while the wine will continue under the name ALITARIK.
• LIKYA BILGESI – OGLAK KARASI: Originally named Likya Bilgesi by Likya; DNA analysis in Switzerland revealed it as Oğlak Karası. From now on, both the grape and the wine will be called OĞLAK KARASI.

A FINAL WORD

We all owe something to the lands we live on. It is not enough to enjoy their gifts—we must also carry our responsibilities toward future generations. Burak Özkan, through his work at Likya Wines, is fulfilling his duty to his homeland. At WAYANA, we wholeheartedly hope his efforts never go unrecognized. And you can be sure we will do our part to bring the wines and grapes we discovered thanks to Likya together with friends who will value them as they deserve.

Thank you, Likya Wines. Thank you, Burak.